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What coil & dizzy you using then? Early 1s had an amplifier seperate to the dizzy. If these broke down that was the problem. On later 1s there was a small amp on the dizzy body If the above you have said with the electronics work I would do that,easier to repair in the long term

As I’m sat bored I thought I may as well ignore this thread. @MGT hope he’s not ignoring it though

Nearly the weekend… I can then carry on ignoring it.

That fuse looking thing is a connector Follow the wire may go to the dizzy?

Normally a 110 sits a bit higher on the rear to allow it been level with weight in it.

Rear shock have differnt fixings to the front so they won’t just swap over. Mine was a 110 high cap & winch. Ran standard shocks but better springs

Your fog light should only come on if you have your head lights on.(if you put high beam on the fog lights turn off) And if you are on glass fuses make sure you get a reading on both sides. These holders are prone to not working. Now if you want to quickly check the lights… Remove rear cover...

But if it’s not there they can’t fail it. They can only comment it’s now missing And putting ARB onto a lifted motor won’t help if you off road as it restricts axle movements

Here’s simples…. You know your CV… it has a notched ring around it. Detects the wheel spin The sensor is drilled into a hole in the carrier that goes to the CV. No sensor & the grease will come out, You can use the ABS carrier on standard motors just fill the hole in I’m a fountin of knowlage...

Mine is too posh as well for ABS. I only know what they are because posh friends don’t want to get there hands dirty..

That looks like an abs sensor cable in the Top. Follow that cable attached to the brake flexi to see if it is

for extra fuel,the boost pin can be played with. Look on the tube how this is done. Make sure you mark every thing incase it does not work

I think the wrong master cylinder is causing the problem.not allowing full contact of the clutch. If a slight bit of pressure is still applied it could be causing the juuddet. There must be slack in a LR pedal for correct engagement. Has your pedal got any free play?

Here’s the part numbers(off eBay) As you can see they are differnt so you will have the wrong stick.(looking at the pictures) Hope this helps

Gear stick in the correct place,your steering wheel is in the wrong place But it is the correct gear stick for a 2A Off for a part search

When you do the fronts you may need new shocks & turret rings on the shopping list. Same process as the rear(remove roll bar if there’s 1) stands under chassis, remove panard rod can make life easier.

Nearly a full week of ignorance. No I won’t try harder Back next weekend

Confused me now.. My adjuster square is on top(200tdi disco)

make sure the stands holding the chassis are strong.. raise these up so you can get a lot of droop. Remove anti roll bar(easiest is normally at the D rubbers ) Trolley jack up the oposite axle & it should drop the axle low enough to remove the spring

Double post