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As above, keep the S1 for fun and get a cheap to run modern car for carrying around the baby stuff. It also means you have flexibility to use the S1 when the Mrs needs the other car, and if it's off the road for a few days while you wait for a part it's not such an issue. We have an Alfa...

Thank you. I followed that suggestion last night; with the engine running and lights on I pushed a wire into the inspection light earth socket on the instrument binnacle and earthed it on a bolt on the bulkhead, and the fuel/temp gauges dropped to the bottom of the red zones, removing it they...

As stated it is not the same engine used in UK-market 6-cyl Series 3. It was developed from the Austin O-Series 4-cyl. The Series 3S has the Stage 1 flat front end and bonnet, but pretty sure it was still part-time 4WD. There was a petrol and diesel option, and were used by the SADF. Try...

OK I found a black wire coming through the grommet from the headlights running back to a ring terminal on the steering box. Ran a wire from that to the bonnet earth strap bolt on the bulkhead in case it helped. Still doing it. Did voltage readings from batt neg to chassis and engine block to...

So I put the Gulf synthetic 15w50 in the Series 3 V8 today. I'll keep tabs on it and update this thread as I get observations. Since I changed the non-functioning thermostat (engine was running overly cool) it is a lot cleaner inside the engine too - as viewed through the filler cap. That's...

Could be the case as the ammeter illumination light shorted a few months ago and I burned a couple of wires. I also had some shenanigans straight after fixing the wiring where the fog light switch bulb and the map light stopped working. Map light was restored to operation by running an earth...

Hmmm, it is still doing it despite the cleaned up earths (engine block to chassis and batt neg to chassis) snd the addition of a bulkhead earth. I'll take a closer look at the earth cables and condition.

BS381C 224 Deep Bronze Green https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+381C&cRef=BS381C+224

If you've rebuilt the engine it shouldn't have any sludge at all. Sludge results from using low quality oil and not changing it often enough, exacerbated by short journey use and/or malfunctioning thermostat. Best to start off on the right foot using decent quality oils with detergent to keep...

:D well if it makes you feel better I sheared off the connector for the electronic ignition earth as I was tightening the engine block earth I'd cleaned up so it's immobilised now until the connectors and heat shrink I've ordered arrive later in the week (hopefully)!

Will do - should get it changed in the next week or so. A reference for the Group III base oils being synthetic but derived from mineral crude oil is at The Penrite Knowledge Centre, which states the following: "Full Synthetic oils can be engineered for many different applications. They can be...

Following the advice from @Mark Frewin and the thread linked above, I've done two things: I cleaned up the battery neg to chassis earth cable. There was some surface corrosion under the bolt head and washer, so polished everything up and all is nice and shiny now, protected by grease. Seemed to...

I've searched this topic many times but just found the thread linked below which I've never seen before. Worth linking here because it covers the issue really well: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/bad-chassis-earth.323300/ But in terms of the solution, what @Mark Frewin said above covers it.

Oil is a very complex subject and I'm no expert, but in my view you can use oil of any viscosity which is listed in the handbook, subject to climate and engine condition. This means anything with a lower viscosity of 5, 10, 15 or 20, and an upper viscoity of 40 or 50, dependent on the climate...

Team Another one for the Series electrics experts. It's a Series 3 109 24v. A while ago I had an issue with instrument earths where the fuel and temp gauge would go up to max, and the map light stopped working. There were two or three earth wires to the metal part of the top dash behind the...

Not galvanised but I fitted a Paintman Panels door top. Fitted perfectly, not overly expensive, and has correct UNF studs. I used a flexible lance and shot some aerosol anti corrosion wax inside before assembly. Can't see it rusting anytime soon. I was originally going to get from SP but was put...

If you follow the suggestions from Wildefalcon, it is relatively easily fixed at a reasonable cost. While unfortunate it is far from a death knell in my opinion, though I understand your frustration. All of us have been in a similar place at some point. Old vehicles nearly always have some...

An excellent video on converting a Series 3 chassis to bolt-on gearbox crossmember is here: If you can weld it looks like a pretty simple job.

As above, no seal required. I changed this, bolted right up taking care to tighten the nuts (get correct brass ones) evenly. Bear in mind depending on the age of the Landy there are two different versions of the nuts with imperial and metric threads. Getting the old one off was a faff as odd...

I have seen repros on eBay, with switch holes and without. The only thing is they are made in one piece not two separate sides so not exactly the same as original. Or there is an original on eBay at present for a buy now of £20.