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I entirely agree. If oil meets the relevant API or ACEA spec, it performs to a certain required level, irrespective of whether the base oil is mineral, highly refined mineral, semi or full synthetic. The 200 TDI is substantially the same engine as the 2.25 and it was specified with semi (and...

PS: Personally I prefer the petrol engine, it is sweet sounding, quiet at idle and if everything is in good nick it goes surprisingly well. Probably better for keeping up with traffic than a 2286 diesel. My petrol 88" will easily exceed 60mph, not that I'd want to do that on a regular basis in a...

Lots of excellent advice from other posters, to which I'd add the following. Series prices vary a lot - two very similar age/spec vehicles can be thousands of pounds apart. You will get more for your money in a Series 3 compared to a similar condition Series 2. If a Series 3 upper or lower dash...

Have a look on LRWorkshop.com - the parts diagrams are on there and bolt sizes and lengths are usually provided in the part name or additional information. Diagrams are linked to lists which click through to list of retailers selling the parts and prices. In the case of some...

My experience with a Britpart exhaust is eerily similar to at least two other posts on this thread. The PO fitted a Britpart exhaust to my 88 which lasted 2 years and 1500 miles at which time it looked as though it had been retrieved from the Titanic and made a nice pile of rusty flakes on the...

Why would synthetic oil cause shiny looking bores? Are you saying it can damage an engine?

I've painted panels using Paintnuts JCC 515 Marine Blue aerosols available on eBay. Expensive at £20 a can for aerosols - but still a fraction of the cost of getting a pro to do it. The cans have fan nozzles which means the paint goes on well. Just make sure you shake cans for at least 2-3...

It looks nice but that is an awful lot of money for a Series 2 Land Rover. It would have to be flawless attention to detail for that. Some nut and bolt restorations are better than others. I wonder if they've used correct nuts, bolts, washers etc, and not metric (or worse) stainless. The...

My Series 3 FFR soft top has an original factory-fitted roll bar attached to the tub part no MTC4211 which incorporates the upper seat belt mounts. Probably more original-looking than a Defender seat belt mount bar but just as effective.

First thing I'd do is remove the switch and test it with a multimeter. That way you will know it is either the switch or not. If not, move on to checking the wiring. If it is a 6-way switch it is likely to be the same type as a British Army vehicle of the same vintage. A British 24v wiring...

Part no 551508 (without steering column lock) is shown in the parts catalogue for my 24v Series 3 FFR. So I'd say yes it is the same part no for both.

Very true. Because the value of a Series 3 varies between £500 for a wreck and £25K+ for a mint nut and bolt rebuild it is relatively easy to tart something up to look better than it is and coin it in. It is far too easy to let the heart rule the head!

Due to the ease of substituting parts, Series LRs are easier than a lot of modern vehicles to fake identities if stolen, or if someone swaps identities to or make the vehicle seem older to avoid road tax etc. Beware on anything without decent identification, V5 with matching details , chassis...

If you are on budget, I wouldn't be supercharging it. It might seem like a cheap option but trust me, it won't be. The gearbox can't take too much more than 100bhp anyway. If you want more power but are on a budget, save up for the SU carb and mounting parts, and watch some YouTube vids on...

Dear All, The world keeps changing; I've just heard from a friend who is an excellent mechanic who has done superb work on my Series Land Rovers. He is relocating elsewhere in the UK and semi-retiring so can no longer do the annual work on my Series Land Rovers. So I'm looking for someone in...

I have an ex-military 109 which has smaller seat back buffers on the driver's side only - it was an official mod. It gives about another inch as stated by another poster above.

I have the original 5.5" tube type rims fitted with tubes and Avon Rangemasters. They look period mil spec, are not expensive, were a factory fit at one time, and work well enough on and off-road. A more modern 7.50R16 choice would be Defender tubeless 5.5" rims and Michelin Lattiude Cross...

Another downside is the expense and limited choice of 6.00x16 tyres.

I've got Bearmach mild steel systems on both the 88 and 109. They have some form of zinc-like coating as seen on many other mild steel systems. The quality looks pretty good and the price was reasonable. The 109 exhaust is 2-1/2 years old and around 1800 miles, no visible deterioration except...

Regarding the radiator, I would get your current radiator re-cored. I got the radiator in my 109 V8 recored as they are difficult to find, and ludicrously expensive when they do turn up - similar to your situation. Re-coring gives a result as good as new.