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Done a post search and it is this blend motor that was playing up, I fitted a new pot and it was fixed until now. So... either... 1- my soldering leaves a lot to be desired. 2- the new pot has failed. 3- the motor has died. Question..nano says pot failed BUT if the motor has failed then the pot...

I've got one left that I got off kermie then I'm out. I changed a pot a while back but I can't remember if it was this blend motor or the distribution one above it. I'll have to search my posts to see which it was I was whinging about. Wanna flog me a few?

I was thinking maybe a stiff flap was causing a motor stall and not a blend motor issue at all. But the motor wouldn't run when off the box so that's that. Found a 9v battery for testing tomorrow, unless it's peeing down which is expected, rather that then being baked alive though, i don't cope...

Britpart 'g' are geniune dunlop, no 'g' and they aren't.

Sorted buddy. Forwards for cold.

I thought I might struggle to get at the box lever with the clocks plugged in but it's possible I've discovered. Started her up, ac on and moved the lever one way then the other until I got cold air. Its towards the engine for cold. The missis works on a very hot ward, 38 degrees last Saturday...

I've chickened out. I need to pick the missis up in a couple of hours from work, don't need any disasters! 110 is off the road waiting on bits. I'll wedge the box lever to 'cold' and roughly fit the clocks back so I can still use it. Do you know which way the lever needs to move for cold? To...

Yes, rev counter, speedo is removed, everything else is still in place.

Decided to brave the heat and strip it down. Question if I may... I've got the clock cluster unplugged and out. Ign has been off for a couple of hours, is it safe to put the ign on to fiddle with the , now removed, blend motor? Or will the srs go off?

Cycling the ign didn't work , then the blower wouldn't speed up then I remembered that I hadn't put 'back to ecu control' on the nano but then the blower speed started to respond without plugging the nano back in again. Might strip it all down tomorrow, too bloody hot inside the rangey.

I'll give that a go, ta.

Nano says the pot is duff. I've tried forcing it with the nano but getting no % movements. I remember unplugging the hvac last year, I think, which fixed something that wouldn't work. iirc, all motors were working as they should but the book wouldn't go out. I really ought to be keeping a diary...

AC was regassed a couple of weeks ago, lovely..until today. Book came up, heat on full drivers side, passenger side cool, both set to low on the hvac. Cycling the ign didn't cure it so I had to carry on, 2 hrs round trip getting cooked. Back home now so I'll get the nano on it. Bottom motor on...

Wonder if there is a fix for the drop down springy flap thing that doesn't springy down anymore? I have to manually lower it which isn't on really.

Looked through the pics on my phone and found only one and that's not the best but you can just see the carpet on the kick panel and a bit of carpet showing on the passenger side too.

I stuck black camping closed cell foam to mine then carpet to that. The other bits, I call kick panels if we are talking about the same things, to the right of the accelerater pedal? I stuck carpet to those aswell, I finished off that carpet edge, where it wraps around the bottom of the A post...

I'll have to look into that, Ta.

Found a groupon offer for aircon recharge at ats. £43 summit. System empty, which I knew, now nice and cold again but it won't last unless the leak that nobody can find has fixed it self.

Correct. 4psi is the max pressure the pump can make against a dead head. It ticks away for a few seconds just before starting the engine then stops. I never hear it when the engines running. Makes bleeding the fuel system a doddle too. I fit 1/8" bsp male to 10mm compression fittings to each...

I gave up with them years ago. I use a facet 4psi pump, hole in the block capped off.