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Aye, thats what I'm afraid of !

Hi, Just a quickie but, as tomorrow is VCU replacement day I wondered whether anyone had had any joy removing and replacing the VCU in its housing with the O/P flange attached without having to remove the Chassis crossmember ? I have a refurbished VCU pressed into its housing with the Flange...

And the new VR is on ! The new battery is ‘out for delivery’ The VCU is at the post office awaiting collection. And the heater matrix ‘o’ rings have arrived so that I can tackle the leak when I’m feeling brave. I also have a couple of crimp ends for the alternator but was unsure of the cable...

Got it off but the bloody crimp connector cracked into bits. guess I’ll be doing that next ! im going to stop tonight as I’ve nearly got the VR changed over but one cheesed screw is stopping me ! going to wait until tomorrow with fresh eyes and a deft flat-blade rather than bugger it beyond...

Oh man, hope you’re feeling better, that sounds horrific. take care and rest up, need you around to answer daft landy questions. wishing you a speedy recovery

Ok, so I’m in full dismantle mode… battery is out, alternator is freed, mostly. there were two cables into the back of it: a meaty red one (presumably goes straight to the battery) and a feeble, thin cream One. I’ve released the wee one (the cable isn’t in great shape) but the red one is...

yep Gems -for my sins

I should clarify its the VR -f153A Mobiletron I have for my 120A Magnetti Alternator

Battery ordered (as specced) arriving tomorrow, I have in my greasy mitts the Mobiletron regulator so my first steps after work ce soir will be to safely remove the duff battery (as per Handbook: Ignition on, then off then remove within 17 secs) and the alternator and replace the VR on it. I'm...

But that’s two duffers in 6 months (last one replaced foc under warranty). have I just fitted a badly-suited battery ? Or is it more to do with irregular use or improper charging (alternator currently o/ps 13.8V)? Still, if £100 for a new battery fixes it, that’s getting off lightly

Ah ! Sounds like mine

-and if I have to fork out for a battery if the yakusa is pish (local technical term) what might be a good recommendation ? -bearing in mind the odd polarity

Ok, so some data just in: checked connections, all ok. checked voltage from ecu -nada Checked resistance from sensor O/C Swore a lot Accidentally checked resistance across ecu (and hope I haven’t fried it). however…. I have a brand new sensor in the glove box so I tried to measure it via the...

But isn’t the only reference it has the bogus numbers from the height sensors ? ie. It thinks it needs to get to 115 so it goes to 115 regardless of how high that actually is . mind you, is t it supposed to ‘sophisticatedly self-level’ ?

So I've got one of these...

Ill get stuck into it when I escape from Auntie

It •IS* a new (ish <1 year) battery... Alternator charges at 13.8V so upping its VR to give 14+ -mind you would have to run it for a bit. I have a 'Smart' charger bur it seems to only ever charge to 12V (or 12.4V). Is the sensor connection in around the EAS gubbins on the NSF ?

Finally, getting around to this amidst a slew of other jobs. Had a wee look at the replacement VR yesterday and the protruding thin metal thing scared me a little. Sorry to be a pain but was it a screw off/on job or do I need to break out the soldering iron ? Thanks again Bob

If low voltage has caused this, how does one clear it ? I’ve had the battery on charge for a couple Of days, it’s still only giving back a little over 12V but it isn’t drastically ‘low’. nanocom doesn’t seem to want to play ball

Good Luck ,