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It’s the one that looks like this

Hi again, I’ve read a lot about hub alignment and oil seal leaks and not touching the collet adjuster. I’Ve also seen that a few hardy souls have made their own version of this £1000 tool on lathes. Sadly I don’t have.a lathe but I do have a 3D printer and wondered whether I could print the...

Thanks. it’s the upper and lower ball joints on the swivel hub -but I’m going to change the track rod and drag link at the same time as they’re all showing wear. I’m hoping the drive shafts should come out as they’ve been out recently to have the front diff replaced… famous last words !

Hi, apologies if this is another daft question but I’m in need of some guidance. I’ve to remove my front hubs to replace the ball joints and I cannot work out whether I need to take off the big hub nut on the front or can I just remove the four at the back of the hub and pull the whole drive...

Such sad news, my thoughts are with his family and loved ones.

So 6 nuts, 2 gaskets and 3 studs. Total cost: less than a tenner and some skin off my knuckles but it’s like I’ve got a new engine. Responsive, powerful, eager -and fuel economy up about 20% too. well worth doing.

d’oh ! That’s sooo obvious

what is this two nut magic you speak Of ?

Oh, and if anyone has any tips on screwing new studs into a rusty manifold I’d be most grateful !

The prize goes to @pete12345. fearing the worst, I was speaking to a really fabulous bunch of guys at GEMM 4x4 in Larbert and they said to bring her along and someone would have a nosey. so next day I did and the exhaust, while ‘patina’d’ was solid except it was blowing at the joint where the...

Oh man, I’m sorry, I’ve only just spotted this. Sending you all the very best. As we say up in these parts ‘It’s a sair fecht’ but hang in there and fill your days with the things and people you love. I sincerely hope things take a turn for the better, take care, fella.

Oh man, sending my best wishes for a full and swift recovery.

What firmware version is your BECM ? mine is a late ‘97 car with v39 firmware and it allowed entry of the EKA as described above -I did have to check with JLR as the wrong EKA was written in the handbook

I’m hoping not…. Engine was replaced around 60,000 miles ago… Noticed there are no heat shields on the manifolds but they’re wrapped in some kind of white rope-like material. The exhaust does look Pretty rusted up and has been welded in a few places

Not really, it just sounds a bit ‘breathy’ and wheezy. I’m just squinting at the cost of exhausts but seems like a false economy not to go stainless…. Even if it does cost £££ upfront

V8 sounds all farty and whirry, a bit reluctant to ‘go’ when you Put your foot down and even thirstier than usual. checked the air intake and all seems good there.

Hi again, ok this definitely sounds exhaust-related. Would I be right in thinking that any restriction in back-pressure would hurt performance and fuel economy ? if I want to replace the rusty pipes can anyone recommend a decent (though not wallet-scaring) source / supplier / brand ? is it...

Hi, you all likely know more than me but I had a similar issue a while back and Nanocom and EKA code got me out of jail. here’s how I did it (nicked from my previous post): The nice chap from JLR Historic vehicles came back with a third (different!) EKA code and one for the (long gone) radio...

Had a fun one yesterday, blew fuse 14 whilst towing and needed fuel. Fuse 14 not only does towbar but also fuel flap ! No fuses for sale at garage but thankfully had spares nestling in the fuse box so didn’t have to resort to trying to work the manual release

Seriously ? There’s a refinery about 30 miles away and the ppl hasn’t dropped below £1.86. should request ‘Scottish Weighting’ when I next ask for a raise