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:tea:

no what i mean is, the air inside could effectivly be drawn back out of the tube. Like sticking your head out of a car window sideways and trying to breath, it takes your breath away.... just an idea. I dont tend to stick my head out the window when driving :hysterically_laughi

Theres nowt wrong with UVoil, it just doesnt have the required anti frothing and anti acid agents required for long life operartion. But if its changed every say 3000 then no harm will be done. Its the additives that give oil its lasting properties, and, in the case of the PD vw engine, give...

sorry, should of read the post better. I wonder if the air rushing over the filter is causing a depression in the mushroom and tube.

does this happen when moving at speed? low or high, idle etc?

I couldn't resist, haven't laughed so hard in ages:hysterically_laughi. I work for a company that specializes in oil training with regards to specs and application and oil make-up.

I love reading miss-information about oil. Just goes to show the "oil is oil" people don't actually get it.....

as said, 9 volts is too low, cheap plugs wont draw enough current and dont hold a decent amount of after glow. Decent glow plugs should see 11.5 volts min on a good battery.

edc solenoid in the pump should buzz (loud if high mileage or quiet if low mileage), if it is rattling they it has failed and will need changing.

edc or non edc?

depends. but the red coloring under the alternator against the block will be very visible.

Thats a good bit of repair work though! I need to get another mig as my arc welder is no good for tidy welding. Then I can tackle the floating rear floor and rotten inner wings and sills.

I get about the same as it is. I am looking to upgrade the torque converter to a modified one soon so the gearbox has more drive and less slip, should improve economy massively.

yeah I bet, Im just returning mine to factory fresh, or as fresh as i can get it on a budget, before I start modding it. But as im starting a new job soon, and it being an auto, I am doing a few bits to the ecu and engine to get the mpg up lol

Blimey, that accident was so bad it smashed the wing into the shape of a snorkel! :hysterically_laughi

That link is a coolant diagram for the 200/300. I can see the direction of flow and where leaks might occur etc.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=300+tdi+coolant+diagram&espv=210&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&source=iu&imgil=-WDF2JBRBxSq_M%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcTNVR0ajZnjCgwU1Mru1Po_SSjkiRzhAXDAEBtYFcysgMWeeU578w%253B800%253B554%253BQ-xMGDa2R9p_mM%2...

Common - P gasket, look behind and slightly under the alternator. Check the head to heater matrix hose where it connects to the head at the top towards the bulkhead. Also check the rad core itself, and the core plugs.

I put a cetane improve'r in the tank to counteract the spitting injector yesterday and at 6:00a.m this morning with a slight frost and showing 2 degrees cent ambient temps, it fired first turn of the key with 1st pre heat instantly.