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LR could make some cash back then off ABS/TC/HDC being an option. At least on the basic models, it may have been standard on others. They probably still make cash with TR options, the sort of options over standard TR that 99.9% of users will never notice any difference, but they have paid good...

My guess, yes.

Maybe this is more appropriate... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/mercedes-benz/sl-350/listing/5295505905 or maybe this... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/jaguar/xkr/listing/5389554474 Perfect cars for road trips now the kids have flown the nest :cool:

And make sure your oil level isn't rising, the HP pump can leak into the sump. Dunno if the TD4 has a non-return valve in the fuel pipe work. The L Series has in the priming bulb (which the TD4 doesn't have).

I've always wanted a Cappuccino, and this popped up the other day... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/suzuki/other/listing/5407094745 It looks in good nick, but why store it for 5 years? Tempted. Wonder what condition its in.

I did a very professional job of ignoring today. Mind you it is very easy to do a comprehensive ignoring when you have such a high-flying, jet-setting, international adventure travel occupation :cool: My mind and body was consumed today taking 11 broken toilet cassettes and seeing how many...

No, I don't go in the Tratter section.

Technical Forum.

Erm. Sorry. I'm with Rodney Dave. https://www.google.com/search?q=landyzone.co.uk+freelander+what+are+the+biggest+tyres+that+fit

Sounds like you've got some general electrical issues there. For ECU type systems (windows, CL etc) to fail and then start working after being reset with the battery off sounds like spikes of power corrupting them. I'm no sparky, but that's what happened on mine. In my case the starter motor...

Personally, I wouldn't spend time under a car held up by axle stands. Especially if I'm yanking on rusted up nuts and bolts and possibly rocking the car. Sod that for fun.

For the OP, let's hope that the crank sensor is the sacrificial gadget to stop the engine.

Cheers chaps. Over.

Suppose the responsibility is on me to ignore it then.

Don't know about the F2 TD4, but my L Series F1 is known for throwing the drive/fan/aux belt (usually because of the tensioner rather than the alternator) which then gets wrapped around the main pulley and fouls the cambelt - sayonara engine usually. Hope this hasn't happened to yours.

Probably using 1 of the "quality" battery testers they sell inhouse. :rolleyes: Using "highly trained" operatives. :rolleyes:

Have you checked the oil level? Experience tells me some mechanics have trouble reading a dip stick! (or don't bother, just bung in what they think is right and maybe make mistakes doing that!) Sounds like it could be a drive/fan/aux belt issue though. Hope it hasn't come off and done some...

Did it start when the tyres went on?

TBH, I think someone has been doing stuff with that prop as the plates under the Option 1 bolt heads - the ones each joining 2 bolts should be bare metal - they look to have been spray painted while the bolts are installed, so on the car. Your Fill and Drain ID is correct. Not sure if it was...

Yes, you remove the option 1 bolts. There is no need for a plate. People only remove the option 2 bolts when the IRD is badly broken and a plate is bolted on to cover the hole - the car will basically be converted to 2WD permanently. This would be done seperately and after removing the props...