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i suspect the metal piece that came out is half of a snap ring that was once lost when the yoke bush self destructed... who knows where the rest is? couple of days a go i replace master and slave cylinders and gear changes are back to normal. case closed (until its reopened)

using a multimeter i have determined that the light comes on when the PK wire does NOT have supply. so in order turn it on i would need to cut out supply not provide it. i think i could use a NC relay maybe. however realistically sounds a little too complicated for what is probably very little...

I think then its the ORM light. I tested a bit, the sls light is the one at the bottom of the cluster and cant really see it lol. This is the one i want to light up

I will use one of those but im worried i won't notice the little light lol. I will even power the switch by the air compressor switch so that if the air compressor is off, the locker will automatically be off.

Based on this i know that the pink/purple from the switch, when joined to earth will light up the bulb (tested). I think the bulb is actually powered by an orange and white wire

Yes i do have cdl so i thought I better use a different light,as offroad i normally drive with cdl activated but rear diff will only be used for exceptional cases

Anyone knows which wire i need to tap in to light the air suspension amber light please? As i dont have air suspension, I want to light it when i turn on the rear locker so i have some indication that its on

This came out when i drained the gear box oil. Anyone knows what it is 😅

what i have found is that gearbox oil replacement can also help, although i dont think that would change the "feel" of the pedal, will still replace the oil as its been there for at least 2 years

replaced the fluid, did nt feel bad when i went for a test drive but eventually gears started stinking again. im guessing its new master/slave time

I changed it a few years ago, i would guess if it was not bled properly i would have had issues before? I usually bleed them quite quickly by reverse bleeding them using the brakes (connect nipple from caliper to nipple on slave and pump the brake or run the bleed function on nanocom

A new problem, after driving for a little while clutch feels "spongy", and its less smooth to disengage. Noticed especially when i tried to pull off up a hill and i couldn't without a fair bit of throttle. This seems to get progressively worse as the car warms up. Gears seem to be going in ok...

also what im hearing is not a squeak, more like hissing

dayco ones are fine but last one i put in... i doubt it was dayco. anyway, ill test the valve block theory first since that it read for install and i want to test it anyway after tapping the new fittings in

Thats an interesting trail of thought you re suggesting cause i did replace the aux belt not too long ago

listening to it again, it sounds almost like a wet belt, checked the hoses to makes sure everything is ok. a buddy driving behind me also noticed that it is leaning slightly and im getting an intermittent fault related to accelerometer readouts too different so today i cleaned the plug of the...

100% what i did not understand is which cable has melted? is it the thick positive between the battery and the starter?

thanks for the update!

100% there is a reason why s/s exhaust manifold will not last a week

i have hydraulic hoses and they work fine. also quite easy to fit. i think if you want to fit stiff s/s pipes you will need to remove the body