Search results

Part of my problem, will be letting morons drive MY van... and other morons fixing MY van... :D So many of both groups have no idea... Camplify was only the fist thing I saw - I haven't even looked into others, so don't know if there are better ones. Having the insurance and "legal" side of...

I like this thread :cool: I was looking at some VW Crafter 6 berth campers on tardme... Wondering if I sprung the $75K or so, if we'd get enough use over the next few years and keep enough value in it to work out OK... or should we whore it out on Camplify or similar. My wife keeps reminding...

Wurth HHS2000 - I used to be a wurth rep in a former life... and think everyone should use it on everything :D and a TINY bit goes a long way... because it's not cheap...

Actually, I've never checked how the rev counter functions on a V8, but it wouldn't surprise me if it used the same signal. The Engine ECU does NOT have an output to the tacho. The wire comes off the coil, goes through a resistor to keep the signal clean/arrest spikes and to the ECU, it might...

You could try the ECU coolant temp one - that would make it default to "cold" start mode (assuming the wiring is OK - again, with Rovergauge you could see what the ECU sees!) It should be the black one, with the square "timer" plug on it. You could try popping the idle hose off and dribble 1/2...

If it won't even pop or fire on easy start, fuel isn't your problem - either nothing is getting into the cylinders, or there is nothing to make it go bang. Compression test first. Make sure air gets in, and gets squished properly. Then check you have decent spark the ENTIRE cranking time. Then...

A Hotwire V8? Maybe the temp sensor has failed and says the coolant temp is too warm, so it doesn't pump in enough fuel to start? Find or buy a Rovergauge cable.

I don't think mine does that? I know it doesn't read them until after a spark event to kick the ECU into life, i.e. starting the engine. If you just turn on the ignition, they all read zero until the spark is registered by the ECU and the start of the ECU program is triggered.

Maybe reset the ECU, after the MAF change and O2 reapirs and let it redo the long term trims again. I'm not sure on a Classic but on a Disco 1, the engine bay fusebox, fuse 7 is parallel and closest to the front wing... pulling that one (marked "Fuel Injectors" on the legend) will instantly...

What are the fuel trims now? You said previously "Both are +100% at idle and within about 10% either side of neutral on the move"... which suggests it was adding fuel at idle (perhaps due to an air leak in the exhaust?) but were OK on the move - possibly from more exhaust flow sucking in less...

Has it run enough time for the fuel trims to adjust?

Why not keep the Disco as well? That way, between the two of them, you'll probably have one car running most of the time?

I once had a car returned and the ENTIRE passenger side was repainted, and the clearcoat was OVER our rental company logo on the 1/4 panel!

"It was like that when we picked it up"

Ah yes. So much sounds familiar! People. Enjoy them :rolleyes:

Those guns work by venturi, so the air flow has to be high enough to "suck" the goo out :eek: If the wand is providing too much back pressure, the venturi doesn't work. I don't know about other brands, but Wurth do an (expensive) UBS gun that can be adjusted for different jobs and textures...

IF you have ignition issues, that can also cause the ECU to add fuel trim - A misfire actually shows as a lean condition, because the fuel doesn't burn, excess air comes through. What is your timing at? I often run 12BTDC, but have it on 10 right now, because I was towing in Summer. It's a...

CO is usually 1.8V on a lambda car. It only comes into play in limp mode or if you select a non-cat tune. Either way, both CO and Lamba fuel trims only work on those low RPM/Load cells, it progressivly moves to open loop, based on the fuel tables alone as those criteria increase. You could also...

Does the engine SOUND like it should, with compression? Hard to hear, on a V8, compared to a 4 cylinder anyway. The timing light should get triggered by the spark and if you check the timing while cranking, will tell you if it's timed roughly right. The advantage of the inline tester, is that...

Check for exhausts leaks - if it's sucking in air, the ECU thinks it's running lean (too much O2 in the exhaust) and will add fuel trim - hence the +100, maxed out. Then it starts running super rich.It doesn't take much of a leak, either. Once the Lambda codes are triggered, it defaults to the...