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Hello, recently Ive had moments where I have started my Freelander 1 td4, 2006 diesel automatic, and it starts no problem but it starts at lower rpm than usual, around 3-400rpm then it turns off. Then it happens continously for a few cycles but i eventually manage to start the car with around...

The sound got so much worse after driving a slightly bumpy road, now it concerningly much after every slight turn and when i drive on speed bumps a bit, maybe coil springs?

Can they rust if car not used for lets say 2 months out in a bit of rain here and there? And is it possible to lubricate if rust is the problem without dissassembly? Also last question, if they are rusted would it be fine to ignore?

Helo, whenever I turn my FL1 in turns I get creaking noises with deep tone if that make sense. Is it serious or do i just need to lubricate some parts? I couldnt find much info here Thanks

Thanks for help and advice everyone 🙂

i took it to the mechanic, it cost some trying to fix myself but i dont regret it tho, at least its all good now

Alright, is it hard to replace the passenger side line(not UK) all the way to the abs? I heard it is hard but i guess i do it this way then

I found one that might work, its called loctite 545 which is made for hydraulic and pneumatic systems, but im not sure if it will tolerate the brake fluid itself. It says it is non contaminating too

would I also need to lower the fuel tank? I read somewhere that is needed when changing brake line on the right side of the car (right side from behind it)

Is kunifer copper and nickel? Thats the one i got

This is the one i used, the black die even got damaged and also the thing that holds the line

Update: After some procrastinating big time… i put together all fittings where it was corroded and where I could not open with the wrench and ended up buying a cheap and an expensive flaring tool. Difference between cheap and expensive flaring tool is day and night, no point getting cheap one...

Im not sure what you mean by green plastic coating on the pipe, i dont see any, maybe previous owner changed the whole deal and didnt use the original..

This sounds like a good idea, i already bought a cheap double flaring tool with cutter and bender, but i just need the joiner connector so i can cut off the corroded bit and add extra pipe from there. Is that what you meant?

Progress: so far i managed to get off the two bolts with the tools in the pictures. I used mini beltsander and chisel, before that i tried with chisel meant for wood….. night and day difference with the right tools However when i tried opening the brake hose and lines to change them, i twisted...

Only between 35-45C yes?

Yes i did order with shoes and drums😊👍

I guess ure right

Im going to get a 400watt one

Thank you so much for reccomendation!