Search results

Steelwork picked up from the platers today: Which has come up pretty good considering the state some of it was in. Its almost a shame to paint them, but long term protection is needed. Trial fit: There were some cappings that came back that I just cannot for the life of me remember where they...

I think it would be possible to use a bussed 4-way connector. 3 of the cable entries could be used, and the 4th one filled with a blanking plug - which are available. Like these: DT Blanking Plugs I have not got to a point where I need to make decision...but its one way forward.

I don't I'm afraid, apart from those shown on page 9 of the PDF link above. Frustratingly they do not do a three way split. But the 4 way looks useful.

They are not German, but American...which these days some rank as unwelcome too, on account of the trade tariffs. Apparently.

I found another £1.82 stuck to the dash tray with what looks like green Loctite...or very dried up and sticky Nightnurse. This resto wont fund itself so every penny counts!

I'm in the process of slowly converting every bullet crimp connector to Deutsch DT series (For anyone interested, more info here: DT Series Tech Specs) I knew them from a previous life and decided to fit them wherever possible on the 110 that is currently undergoing resto. Landyzone thread...

At some point the previous owner(s) had decided to become an auto electrican and add some...unsual mods: First up, a relay where every wire coming to or leaving it is...black: Go on...gizza clue... Black worked as a colour scheme for the Model T. But here its less than ideal Then we have a...

Progress update. First up, stripping the heater box down: The good news is the fan motor is in fine fettle and its just surface corrosion to deal with. Disassembly was easy enough. The decision to use both spot welds and pop rivets along the same joint...was a curious one. Before it all...

This resto is not going to fund itself...

At £20 I might just take one for the team...

That looks like its worth a go. A quick search around for Optima didnt find many results on t'interweb. So the nagging concern is how old is their stock and what's the shelf life? (Edit: data sheet says 2 year shelf life unopened container). Will see if I can find a supplier. I guess buying...

One option. But the metal is often very thin and not much room for the countersink.

Good point. Its smaller, more localised areas where there is already a fold/stiffener I'm thinking about. Like these: The last one is a historical repair that needs redoing. The adhesive would not be used alone, but would cut down the number of rivets needed plus keep the moisture out of...

Izzy is going to need some remedial repairs and patching and there is a strong desire to keep the number of rivets - particularly visible ones - down to what is necessary. So current thinking is modern 2 part expoxy adhesives, the stuff used extensively by the modern motor industry for assembly...

I saw the dented bonnet stiffener...put 2 and 2 together and thought the top of the engine was an interefence fit without the dents. I will offer it all up and see - thanks for the advice. Knowing this is priceless.

Looking at it...being in the last third of my life and wanting to enjoy myself...what made me think trying to recover this ferrous mess was a good use of my time? Sanity check over and thank you!

The bonnet stiffener on Izzy is rusted to the point daylight now appears through sections: The question: Is this really worth repairing? Or time for a replacement? The Isuzu 2.8 engine sits a little higher than what fits under the original bonnet line. This view is formed by the fact the...

The bonnet stiffener is rotten as a pear. With holes. The spare wheel carrier was unbolted and the bonnet hinge screws saw the slitting wheel release their grip. I dont know if there is an authorised way to remove the stiffner. The oak wedges used to lift the body floor got another outing...

One of the rear crossmembers had seen the metal moth generate fresh air where steel should be. Tonight's task was to fill it in with a small patch: And weld it back in. Only got access to arc at the moment and that can be a bit fierce on thin rusty stuff. At one point I started chasing a...

The rear floor had enough metal moth holes to think pulling the floor up and replacing it was a good idea: Its not a job to be rushed. I think there were 66 spot welds and I lost count with the steel rivets, some of which were easy to access and two tucked into the corners. The angle grinder...