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I might have an older style column in the box of spares left over from my rebuild, I certainly have the later style. I also have the earlier column in mine as prefer the larger 4 spoke wheel fitted the the early 90/110. I can have a check if you are interested. Do not think I have a wheel though.

I used econoseal connectors on my roof lights onto twin core cable so they are earthed in the battery box where my relays are mounted. You can buy econoseal and cheaper imitations on ebay. this means if I need to swap a light out it is just plug and play and if I need to take the roof off (as I...

Can you give me a little more detail on exactly where this part is? I have never actually had the calliper apart properly on this so am not sure what it is I am needing to clean out but your assertion it only takes 20min fills me with hope.

It is the xeng one that I have. Based on a jcb caliper and brake pads.

That is my hope. But I can’t afford to have the vehicle off the road. So was hoping to fit an R380 handbrake which works better than the original one while trying to rebuild the xeng one.

My disc handbrake conversion is becoming troublesome, I do not know if it needs stripping and cleaning or if it’s not set up correctly. But it only Seems to keep Adjustment for a few weeks and then stops working again. As such I am looking at the options to revert back to a drum brake setup...

Mine is a 1989 and it has the slot. To my knowledge it is standard on all models. The number of turns from lock to lock is not a guarantee that the box is centred as the tracking could have been adjusted incorrectly, the steering stops on the axle could be uneven. The only way to truly centre...

I don’t know. Mine is an early one, so that is what I am referencing. I don’t have fancy doors with up and down windows!

you should not set the steering centre or tracking on a vehicle with a steering box based off the steering wheel. The defender steering box has has a centering hole that you line up with the slots on the back of the drop arm (pic below). You put in the correct sized pin (cannot remember the...

I'm doing that, there seem to be a lot more of the curved ones up for slae form discos than the straight ones for a defender. I am assuming as discos rust away and get scrapped people pull the accessories off whereas the defenders are kept running.

that was my assumption, it is just the tail lights.

I do not know how to access it on a puma, on the older ones, they are very easy to swap over through the ashtray on the dashtop. If one jet is still working the other will just be blocked and some more careful pocking and prodding to clean is likely too be all that is needed.

Always black, although I am going to judge you for have alloys rather than proper steels wheels! you have exactly the same tyres I run on mine, and I am running an 8" wide modular with a ET+8 and this setup puts the edge of the tyre level with the edge of the spat as can be seen below with both...

Key does need to be in the barrel, it does need to be turned to the correct orientation to line the pin up with the hole, and then even after doing all that the chances are it will still not come out if it is anything other than brand new and you will resort to drilling it out a anyway!

TRO/Lucas is the OEM brand to go for, more expensive but worht the money imo

It is a very straight forward job to do, There are two screws one each side and a plastic pin into the side (although the parts diagram below shows it as a screw). It Then just pulls off over the handbrake handle. I do not know if it is different in higher trim level models with fancy things...

They will be on a screw through the body work behind the rear light covers. I don’t know if you have trim panels but would Need to remove those to access the light cover. then remove the light cover. This will expose the back of the lights and and the wiring loom. There will be a ring...

I do but I am trying to avoid having to do that if I can. That was my guess as well. But I do not like the idea of a full light bar. If it fails you lose all, if it breaks you lose all, I would much rather just need to replace a single light than the whole thing.

Just an update to this I have found the one I have currently but is no longer sold LINK Does anyone know of any similar on the market or have an old one tucked in the corner of the shed I could purchase?

Based on that pic I don’t see the point of mounting the spotlights separately. As they would certianly Be blocked. Would be better pointing to the bull at on a separate switch so they can be turned off when in that position. If you still need extra light when in use you want a roof bar or old...