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I think pensions are a minefield, Iirc there were one or two ifas on the disco3forum. We saw ours recently, and for them to go through the pensions and offer advice on savings etc is going to be circa 1.5k, not cheap but I would rather pay and know now than curse myself in 10yrs time for being...

Yes and no, but if head gasket has blown between cylinders then the piston on compression could be pushing gases into the cylinder that is charging hence the noise out of the air filter as the charging cylinder has its valve/s open to let the fresh air in. Have seen trucks with cracked piston...

Called a tell tale, same as the holes in the bottom of the timing chest and flywheel housing.

Running on two? Noise/blowing out of the air filter points to valve gear issue of some sort, or head gasket blown between two cylinders.

I would pop the dash and disconnect and reconnect every connector you can get to, weird things can happen to electrics if left standing.

I think the original question is plain daft, air brake even on old ****etrs are more complicated than hydraulic brakes. No insurance company on the planet would touch it with a barge pole.

Scania R cab heater matrix, flushed it multiple times, still crap heater, new matrix all fixed, I reckon all heater matrix with their inlet/outlet pipes at the top are a silt trap.

I have had exactly the same with 200 stats, quality ones are like rocking horse poo.

Air brakes use large amounts of air, most large truck compressors are 750cc capacity and they take some power to drive them.

Well you revving the engine which makes the heater blow hotter would suggest to me the stat is partially stuck open.

You need the standards number ie C3 etc.

I would be amazed if you cpuld get any air brake components small enough to fit.

You sure on stat?

Been thinking about them bolts. Maybe hammer a m10 or m12 nut over the bolt head, then weld nut to bolt head, gives you more meat to play with.

I would grind the bolt heads off, remove the timing cover, strip that down and then remove the timing chest which could be fun! then you have full access to remains of the bolts, the worst three are normally the ones around the water gallery (top right in first pic), all the timing cover bolts...

I would seal it up and be done with it. CT1 makes bloody good sealants.

Apologies, numbers back to front, **** eyes and the mobile do not work!

3 is feed from filter 1 is return

200 not used for a while or idling for a good while can white smoke like a bar steward until the stat has opened ie about 4/5 miles, so do not condemn the engine until you have given it a proper roadtest. Even if the 200 is totally shagged it will start and run okay, my 200 in the s2 is worn out...