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I believe car emissions are fudged by the manufacturers to get around emissions laws. When I had a company car I had a list sent out of the cars I could have and the tax I had to pay for them depended on their emissions. This changed frequently but the cars and their engines did not, yet a car...

Mine is 2004 and showing 205g/km even though they have confirmed and accepted it is electric. They just make it up as they go along.

I was just taking the p1ss but that is what I believed to be true. Doesn't mean it is true, just what I believe to be. ;)

Don't see any ships so not really possible. ;)

I like to think of the rattles, squeaks and creaks as character. 🙂 Now I've tamed the front creaking a little I can hear the others so much better. 😄

MOT is in a week so decided to have a look under and check for wheel movement. Jacked it up and found this Worse still it was the same on both sides but thankfully I had a couple of spare clips from previous repairs. Once that was sorted I checked the wheels and found one had movement...

Don't all brands have alternate wipers?

IIRC there was a thermostat adapter made for the top hose mod but I can't remember who was selling it. Was it Muddy Mods?

What a weird abomination! As mentioned a sheet of Alloy (from a scrap metal place) would do the same job with a fraction of the weight. I did this a few years ago and used the car for off roading a few times and it worked a treat.

You know the rule GG If it ain't broke, DON'T FIX IT!!! 😆

The L Series Freelander we had was SWMBO's so I didn't drive it often but every time I did I was surprised at how hard I had to push the brake pedal. She was used to it and has strong legs so never noticed an issue. Is it possible the issue was the vac pump? Did they change the brake boost at...

That is how the TD4 boost worked but not certain about the L series. I owned an L series around 18 years ago and was surprised how gutless it was. Plus how poor the brakes were.

Last week I used my Freelander EV to tow a mates motorbike (on a trailer) to a repair shop. Only problem was the shop is 30 miles away and my car has a range of up to 100 miles on a good day. In the winter at around 3 Deg C with a large trailer and a motorbike it could not be called "a good...

I think I heard somewhere that with a bit of tweaking an L series can be made like Grumpy suggests but I've not done it myself.

It probably has an L series diesel rather than the TD4. This would make it feel like it had no turbo even though it did.

IIRC the clutch master was sorted in this video so maybe worth a watch

This sounds more like a faulty door lock where the CCU doesn't know if the door is open or closed. It's very common and fairly easy to replace with a good used lock. If the interior light stays on with the door closed or doesn't come on when it's open that will confirm it.

There is no point trying to keep the gearbox in as you will need to remove the drive shaft in the IRD anyway. I'm assuming that's why you want to keep the gearbox in as I can't think of any other reason. Drop the lot as a single lump as suggested above and unbolt as required while on the ground...

Fair point, the diagram clearly shows Pos being switched. I should have known better as I had a go at making mine work a year or so ago but gave up as I struggled to make head nor tail of the diagram and I didn't really need it. My car is in the garage 99% of the time so no snow or ice on it and...

Have you checked you're getting a ground at the windscreen? I believe the screen heater is controlled by the ECU or VCU so probably has the ground switched and permanent 12V