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Right I have had a search on line and on this site but can't find any helpful information :mad2: so here goes. Still in the process of getting my d1 ready for its mot and was testing all the lights and wipers/washers when I found out that when I press the demister/heated rear screen the tail...

If the frame is galvinased there's no real need to seperate the alloy from the galv door frame. The reaction should be very slow if at all there due to the metals being so close on the galvanic table. :tea:

I thought it was the my car is rusted away to dust club???:D

Now I am surprised to hear that, would of put money on it being a import, just wish when I removed my carpet it was as rust free as yours, :mad2: would of saved 7months of work lol.

Lol no need to get all disappointed I am not doing a build to anywhere near your standard. Lol Then again I do have some cash burning a hole in my pocket for some new wheels, diff and steering guards and off corse the much needed loads of extra lights :D but that will need to wait till it's...

Up date time. Right things have been slow over the last few weeks but it is coming together. Started off fixing the rotten seat base. Cut out all the rust and welded in some nice fresh metal, once that was done it was the normal two-three coats of por-15. Forgot to take a close...

Such a nice clean disco, I take it it's been a jap import with it being such a rust free example.

As said it's not hard just takes forever. Well mine did lol. I did not weld the floor back in, I bonded it because I feel a lot of the recurring rust issues is people welding the floor to the straps and being unable to seat the weld below because of the tank.

Did you just do the one seat?

You might want to remove the dickie seats and side trim to inspect the inner quater panels for more rust. If it was me I would fix it. It's not a hard job, just finished mine well kinda finished.

How much did the parts cost? Looking at doing the same but would like to also replace the beige leather but can't find a supplier so thinking about trying a dye on them.

And to add to this list rear inner 1/4 panel, rear seat belt mounts at doors, outer wings at rear doors, front body mount points, and the whole of the front floor. Maybe i should of just said anything that's steel. :D Also reference the d1 chassis if you can check where the rear cross member...

Thanks mate will need yo order some this week so I cab plumb in my snorkel

Sturox where did you get the blue are duct pipe from? The one running from air filter to snorkel? Needing some my self and that looks like the number for me..

As far as I can work out you cab no longer buy d1 rear door(boot) hinges. You can get d2 ones that fit and do the job. All the ones yo use for sale are the same, ment for d2 but sold as d1. Half way down this link should help you. Discovery 1 Door Fittings at www.rimmerbros.co.uk Hope this helps.

Thats a shame. I was hoping that you got them to fit. Needing to repair my fronts and thought if p38 seats fitted I would of changed the full interior instead of repairing my old ones.

I hope the garage doing it will know what there doing they tend to have a few landrovers about getting various bits of work done.

I am planning on getting the tracking done. This is to get it as close as I can to get the vehicle to the mot station. I will be locking the steering box in the straight ahead position using the locating/locking point before I fit the rods.

Morning all, I have had a wee look about for this info but have not found the right info I am after. :confused: Can some one tell me the correct length of both the track and drag link between the centre of the ball joint threads. Also is this the same for standard as well as heavy duty rods?

Yet another small update fir those that are interested. Managed a few hours over the weekend in the garage to get the final top coat on to the inside of the disco, I used u-pol raptor it's a heavy dutie rubberised spray for lining vans and truck beds and thought it would work well in the...