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Cracking project mate, just spent a long time going through each page. Did anything ever come of the council letters? Also what happened to the red 90 did that not go ahead?

That looks very very nice indeed, like the idea of just going where you please..

All the bushes have been replaced less than 2k ago, dose not feel like it's the clutch that's causing it, even when in gear and I lightly apply power or come off power it still dose it. If I did not need the damn thing for my daily drive I would have it in bits till i found the issue lol.

Evening people hope you are all ready for Christmas. Anyway have a issue again with my 300tdi :mad: last month I replaced both props with nice new parts including a 4 bolt flange to replace my damaged rubber donut. What has now happened is every time I come on and off the power I get a...

I have been waiting for that day for two years and it's still not happened, bloody landrovers :mad2:

Seen a few discos with this same problem including my own. It is a simple fix and would be a lot more simple than changing it all to digital.

I used por15 following there three stage procedure then sprayed on upol rapor, it's a rubberised paint ment for lining truck and pickup truck load areas, This should stop any rust for many years.

Will the a frame ball joint give a clunk in the transmission

Quite interested in this my self, have just replaced both props (changed rear to 4 bolt) on my 300tdi and now have a clunk coming from what sounds like the front and back of the vehicle as I come on and off the power. Would doing away with the rear rubber donut make a existing clunk noticeable

It will need a good strip down and clean, mine used to stick in lock and also out of lock, pulled the linkage apart, cleaned and greased it all up. Now works like landrover intended it to work.

I think it would be good to have a sub forum for projects, it is a little bit of a pain to find the project threads. Here's mine. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/300tdi-mot-repairs-rebuild-244879.html

When I did mine I did not bother to weld the arch back on, I used a automotive mastic bait like tiger seal, did the same with the boot floor, since it's always the welds that will start to rust first.

Yeah I knew d2 seats did not fit, just your seats don't look like the normal d1 seats. I want to find some nice good leather for mine. My cream leather is all perished and cracked.

What seats did you use? Are they d1 or d2 seats

I was only around £60 for box section and made my own body mounts. Where in Glasgow are you from??

If you used box section for the sills it would of saved you a good few hundred pounds.. Have fun welding it up, I spent way to long doing mine last year and still have lots of mechanical work to do..

Yes with some time that could be fixed. Looks just like mine did. Take a look at my project to give your self an idea. You could use ark but it will be a lot harder and the welds will be harder to keep neat. Mig is defo the way to go.

I would not go to the trouble of finding replacment repair panels since it's just the edge. Just cut it off, shape up some plate and wield on. Paint, seal, job done.

If I remember correctly they are connected just below the boot floor. Loom on the LHS looking in from the rear connect to lower lights, tow bar and fuel level sender. RHS feeds lower lights. All easily disconnected and pulled up through the floor.

Cut the lot out and replace with all new panels that's what I did. It will last a lot longer and make the job faster and easier.