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It's a Defender, that's for sure. I will guess at a TD5.

It can't be your last picture as that suggests you live cable goes straight to earth.

It's on the bottom of the pump in the plastic housing. If you have oil in the ecu then change the injector wire loom.

Looks tidy, what are your plans with it?

Is there not a technical drawing with all the measurements in the workshop manual?

2004 onwards according to Google.

https://www.lrparts.net/nahtddeftop-top-mounted-rear-gas-strut-nakatanenga-branded-for-land-rover-defender.html

I would be welding the chassis up first if I was you.

The more you pay and thicker it is the better it is, maybe! I don't think the difference between the makes is significant, more like we THINK it's better because it's more expensive so must be better. Up to you how much money you want to spend.

They all get stolen from a price of crap farmers truck to a blinged up Khan special. Puma bonnets and door as all the other ones have rusted out by now..

I just bought the cheapest sound deadening pads on Ebay at the time. It's also a good idea to cover the inside of the door trim in foam insulation

Well please let us all know how you get on.

2+ shocks this used to happen to my son's Ninety when laning. Standard length shocks and it isn't a problem.

That's common.

If that's the case then why doesn't it loose pressure over night? If an injector leaks fuel would the oil level not go up?

Learning to drive must be a breeze nowadays. My Golf has an electric motor on each brake caliper to apply the handbrake. Sure it will be considerably more expensive to fix than adjusting or replacing a cable.

Spot welds, you can drill them out.

Do you mean the side cappings that you have already removed or the other section? The other section are welded on but you could rivet and glue them on, or even just glue them on.

I paid the princely sum of £5 to download the Defender version, only to find I already had it 🤣