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I don't know why you would do any of that, it's a Series Land Rover after all. Enjoy it for what it is. Welcome to the forum

Still sounds the same as our injection pump problem, again.

Sorry to hear about your tumor, hope you get that fixed.

This is just one turd that missed me the other week when I was doing the passenger side! It was five times as bad when I washed it, luckily it had been raining during the week.

Thought you had a Ninety with a 200tdi in it? Unless you have a Series aswell? If it is a tdi take the belts off but don't run it long with no belt. Stick a endoscope up the timing belt cover drain hole to look at the timing belt. If it is a Series then ignore the above advice.

Changed the radius arm bushes on the drivers side to match the passenger side I did the other week. Had to cut one of the bolts off as there was not chance it was coming out. Went back together no problem which is good. Britpart yellow polybushes so I dare say I will be doing it again next...

Engine type would be helpful for people to answer your question.

Someone could help better if they know what vehicle you have.

Is it a real concern do they still get stolen on a regular basis? I know many D2s seem to attract pond life but are they still stolen?

Have to admit when we had the same issue I did none of that fault finding, I just bought a switch for the price of it. If I was having to strip it out to test it all I may aswell replace it anyway, it fixed the problem in our case. You may well have to take the ignition lock out which requires...

I return anything which is no good or faulty regardless of price, sometimes they want it back sometimes they don't. Some places want you to cover the cost of postage until you point out that, by law, they have to pay it.

There is a series of videos here, ok it's a Disco but it's essentially the same.

Which bushes did you use in the end? Yes brute force is the answer, on the upside along as you greased all the bolts it will come apart easy enough next time.

Fuel pressure gauge connected at the fuel pressure regulator? Under a certain voltage it won't start, apparently.

No I think they are spring loaded so not really free an easy to turn. In fact if it doesn't turn at all maybe the locking tab has been removed and it's locked in position.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235127935875 Buy the right one as they are not all the same. If you are confident the white wire is at fault could you not energies the relay with 12v just to test it? Then run a replacement wire from the relevant terminal on the ignition switch, to the relay, to test...

I am no electrician but sounds like, from your description you should get a live, white, when you turn the ignition to crank position. This energies the relay, circuit made by the earth wire, and let's current flow to the starter. Warning: I could be talking **** but it sounds good to me!

https://lrd-track.co.uk/products/fuse-box-to-battery-live-cable-relocation-loom If you are changing it for no reason whatsoever then maybe consider buying that, maybe.

Richards chassis I think. Reuse what you can as many aftermarket parts are poor.

Coil?