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To me they are incredibly complicated and something I think might be a good idea may cost me badly. Until I paid the mortgage off I couldn't really pay in enough but now I have some money spare I have found I can't pay in more. Something to do with the original company being bought out. Who...

Not really, I guess it depends on costs involved. In my mind it would be better to contribute more to a sum of money rather than starting again for 10 years. The £500 initial fee I don't really have a problem getting my head round paying, less than Defender insurance, the transfer fee and...

No

In an ideal world buy one with a galvanised chassis. Otherwise it's time consuming but if you are happy putting the time in then Bilthamber do some good products. I wasn't joking about rusting inside out by the way.

Yes I know it's the general Land Rover section but no way is it going in "Anything goes". Short story, I want to pay more into my pension, my pension provider won't allow it so I need to change. To do this I need to employ a IFA to sort it out. Initial fee to look into this and come up with...

Tube out rigger might have a few years left. Chassis, if that is the worst then with time, effort, money you could probably slow the process. Fuel tank cradle is bolt on so not so important. Realistically all of our chassis are rusting away nicely from the inside out, even if we fool ourselves...

The Ninety has a Britpart/Allmakes/ Bearmach one for a few years and is fine. My Td5 has a Britpart one, chances are they are all the same whatever you buy.

The top of the tank is easy to see if the fuel is coming from the seal or pipe connections otherwise follow the pipes as they have a habit of rubbing through and therefore causing a leak.

Interesting, what's "a panel touching the side exit exhaust"? Welcome to the forum.

Looks a good project, make sure we get regular updates.

That's probably why I fitted a filter 🤣

The "cotton reel" type poly bushes are a pain on the rear arms, I dont see the improvement. I will find you a video. On my son's Ninety I did it all by hand with bolts and g-clamps. To be fair it was covid lock down so needed to find something to do.

Although you have the glass filter bowl on the lift pump we fitted an inline filter , cheap enough.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/wish-i-hadnt-started-this-job.393362/

Td5? I had to cut the head of a ring spanner and then weld a cut down socket so I could put an extension bar up past the fuel rank to undo the nut. Maybe jack the chassis up so the axle is lower, if that makes sense (probably not) You will need to take the arms, chassis brackets, ball joint off...

I wonder if it depends on what you want to do. If you have a base model then there will be less systems to diagnose. We don't have a Nanocom but it seems like it covers just about everything you would need.

Zenith carbs are prone to warping but can be sanded flat again I do believe. Webber carb was £120 at the time so wasn't worth faffing around, sold the worn out Zenith for rebuild.

This place sell decent ignition parts. https://simonbbc.com/

I know, that's why I suggested a Weber.