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Getting my mits on a replacement pump today is looking decided unlikely. I think I need to clear the bench and put a tiny bit of effort into checking it more closely

Cutting the joining pipe wasn't really an option as someone repalced the brake lines at somepoint and just sort of ran them generally in the direction of front to rear, with a couple of cable ties loosely locating them, looped around the hose basically leaving no real room to reach up and cut...

That would make sense then, I did think the front was dropping when it cut out, and changed my mind when I looked at the disparity between the heights!

Ah, it didn't quite go like that While it was on the axle stands (a pair each end on the chassis and then another pair on each axle due to changing all the air springs) the rear end was more compressed than the front. When I was finally at the point to test the suspension, and did battle...

Hum Bang goes getting the blasted thing on the road in time to help me move then

Noted, also read about split pickups letting air get in once the fuel level drops. Now debating dropping the tank to take a look as I can get things high enough...or the hole in the floor option...

Charger it will have to be at the moment...until I can either diagnose if the lifter pump has died, or if it genuinely has run out of fuel and I have a level sensor issue. If the fuel pump has died what's tge general concensus on the replacement options seeing as the prices range so wildly?

Brain is a bit frazzled at the moment as I'm enduring a bout of manflu with my 3 1/2 year old son who is the same, so behaving much like the P38... With it being cold, dark and damp out there now I'm in no mood to go argue with the blessed thing and my laptop, but remind me is "Good Idle"...

Diagnostics of what though? Will EAS Unlock tell me anything usable when there are no errors being reported? As for the reason it cut out, well, that's a whole other game; I don't have the diagnostic cable/software to talk to all the crazed modules that need to be in sync for a P38 to work

Hum... It seems to have its own ideas about that Currently stuck in this posiition having started with the front higher than the rear after lowering off the axle stands. Started the engine and it raised the rear up to wading height, I then tried to lower it using the dash switch and...

Following what you've all said about running the engine with the door open seems to have done the trick. Within about 5 minutes the compressor stopped and I noticed that all the air springs were nice and hard. The display on the dash is showing what I presume is that the suspension is at...

Incidentally I do have continuity between the pump orange wire and earth which implies that the thermal switch should be ok

Ok, getting in a muddle with terminology now! When you say 'lower a corner' do you mean raise the axle to compress the spring essentailly lowering the ride height as if the car were on its wheels? At the moment the chassis is on axle stands high enough for me to roll underneath, the axles are...

I had tested the pump by direct feeding it off the car with a pressure gauge in the outlet and it did appear to behaving as a pump at least. So the Thermal Switch clearly needs checking as per Wammers guide.

The tank is well and truly empty as I took it off to de-rust and paint. I am getting most confused as to door open/closed to get the suspension to do anything. I've tried opening the door and leaving it open ignition off, ignition on at position 2 and engine running, and the same variations...

Ahh, I did run the fault codes after clicking Stop...oops... Prior to that I had 'Good idle' and no fault codes showing when I clicked Read Faults. But still nothing seems to be going on with the suspension though

Ok, so all the fluids changed, fuel filter primed, engine starts ok and seems to be fairly happy, was a bit tappety on first start up since I started working on it errr...well over 6 months ago. Transmission fluid cycled many many times, low and high range, and topped up to what I hope is the...

:D I think I got away extremely lightly with my sill repair job...the body mount less so...

Thanks for the compliments. My big fear is that having tackled the usual mechanical jobs to get it to the state where it 'should' play a tune, I am about to be thwarted by the bit I particularly hate delving into on modern (ie anything with an electronic brain) vehicles and the electrics...

Urgh...my OCD is screaming at me about not fixing everything, and I am forcing myself to just concentrate on doing enough to get the thing running and able to pull my trailer full of stuff about. As long as it can do that as capably as my mate's 109 with similar mileage 200tdi I'll be happy...