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my window is now working. I don't have a NanoCom and the rsw diagnostics I use doesn't work monitor windows si it was trial and error. Luckily, the first thing I checked was the problem. It was the switches pack (thanks DataTek for suggesting I start here). I pulled the board out, and before...

I'm about to start diagnosing why my passenger electric window isn't working. I figure it's either the wiring, center switch pack, motor or the computer box thing behind the door card. To save me some time, does anyone have some tips, or order to check things in. I assume the switches are all...

I remember taking my old, but new to me Lexus to KwikFit for an MOT. Passed no problem, but they failed to notice that half of the exhaust rubbers were missing, so a few months on the exhaust snapped in half on me. Would have rather had a fail for such a quick and easy fix.

Surely a P38 must be the least stolen car. It's 50/50 whether you can get around the security system even if you are the owner with the original keys.

At what age do the usual classic car insurance companies consider something like a P38 to be a classic. When I tried to get a quote for my MY2000 I just got a response saying they couldn't quote me. No reason why.

My money would be on the rear main seal unless there's visible oil higher up the engine. What grade oil are you using. If it is the rear main seal, then using 20W-50 won't hurt and may slow it down enough to live with whilst you find time to sort it.

You do have one of the better colours though. I bought green as it was mechanical sound but was ideally looking for blue. But the colour has grown on me a lot.

I think Hurricanes are by far the nicer looking Alloy. Comets look a bit chavy And the Modials look like they have come of a cheap plastic Ferrari toy car. Sorry if I've insulted somebody's wheels. We all have different tastes.

With my daylight running lights enabled the tail lights are also permanently on. It's only the dash and side light that aren't on.

BEMC immobiliser and EKA disabled. Daytime running lights switched on Arnott 3 bags (a little stiff at road height in my view, but fine in off road position) High lift cam in the V8 Top hat liners all interior bulbs are LEDs Everything else is standard

I've wondered this for a while. My 2006 Lexus is the same. I know car windows (I assume the P38 is the same) monitors the current draw of the motor, so if it reaches the end of travel, or you leave your arm in the hole, it detects the change in current draw and then stops the motor. I suspect...

Is the rubber also knackered, or it just corrosion? If the rubber is in good nick then they should be salvageable. Whatever you do, don't throw the mouldings away.

I am of the view that the P38 has reached a heritage now that anything that's obviously unoriginal cheapens the look of them. So I will be sticking to originals. Mine are also rusting. Even got an advisory for it. Plan is to take them off before it's too late and see if I can fabricate my own...

I found these loose connections in my engine bay (4.0 MY2000). First two images show the same connector that has just been unplugged. Third image I have no idea what the little white connector might plug into. Just curious what luxury features I'm missing by not having these wires plugged in.

That's two votes for kiwi now.

For all the other trim, I was planning on using Solution Finish trim restorer. It says it works on vinyl, but it's not a dye, so if my vinyl has lost it's colour, I don't think Solution finish can fix it. So the paint idea is probably the way to go on the vinyl. What I don't know is how well it...

Would that be something like this I suppose: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/specialist-and-decorative-paints/halfords-flexible-vinyl-paint-black-363408.html

Does anybody know what product I could use to dye the rear C pillars black again on a P38? Some of the colour has rubbed off and looks a bit of a mess. Thanks

Crawl under the car, the xyz switch is between the gearbox oil pan and the left side cat (when looking up). If you confirm that the level isn't moving, you can easily remove the cable split pin and manually adjust the xyz lever into whichever gear you want.

I'm not so convinced. The inherent problem with hydrogen will always be that the electrolysis to produce the hydrogen is very inefficient. I don't remember the exact values, but it was something like for every KW of energy you put into a BEV, you need three times as much per KW of hydrogen. Then...