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Yes as long as they work or worked with the old set up. Best buy new case or buttons and battery before trying. Both fobs will need to be presented at the programming stage as it re progs them both the same.

Thanks for update. Hope all stays smoke free !

Search ebay. Many suppliers for TD4 Freelander 1. Part number is WAP000080 An example is here.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281587280707?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Silicon ones are also...

2 jubilee clips to unscrew and swap with new elbow. You've found the problem!!

Looks like the disc brake guard might be catching the disc near the track rod end ? Vibration cause?? Would probably hear it first.

Good news. So to summarise, injector 3 passed the leak back but if black was clearly not sealing properly somehow?? How did you come to suspect injector 3 ?? Hope it stays sorted 😀

Not that then !! Will listen again.

Pop the belt off. Sounds like alternator bearing.

OK. PScan will do it. Seem to be about £15 ukp for a remote. Fit a new case and buttons and job done !

Worth noting, again on TD4 but might be same. The cam cover has studs on bolts to prevent overtightening. Mine leaked there too!! The cam cover gasket had gone hard and as the bolts couldn't be tightened anymore it leaked. Replacement of gasket solved problem.

Not familiar with the L series, is there a feed or return oil feed to the turbo external to the engine? My TD4 had a leak from the union from the turbo to the pipe that returns oil to the sump and it is of a fair pressure of course and makes a mess !!

Lucas 17TN is what you need. Will need to be programmed to CCU. Might be able to find you one. Will PM. Can buy new case and buttons easily on ebay.

No it only comes out from below.

Wonder if another make of starter would.give the shorter length that you need ??

Simple when you've done it but impossible to see how when you haven't!! In between the pump and filter at the top is a small x head screw. Take this out until nearly free but leave in one turn as it is difficult not to drop it !! Then lift whole assembly and it lifts off the bracket...

New one about £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283671922672?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Can be taken off a scrap car with heat gun and care to melt the glue.

Did you hold up button in until window had closed completely and then release it ?? If not it will drop immediately again.

That was my take on it from what you said. Maybe the starter welding affected the bendix arrangement and, as you say, it isn't returning. Hoping it's simple.

A feed 12v lead via a connector and a wire to ground (bodywork) on each side.

Cap it at the T piece from the vacuum accumulator before it gets to the EGR solenoid. If you cap it after the EGR solenoid it makes a noise like a duck when you switch off !! Cute, but annoying.😄