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The clicking you can hear is the solenoid failing to engage. For the cost of the kit you'd be better off repairing that and completely ruling it out as id put money on that being the problem

Sounds like the solenoid on the starter. I'm sure I've seen kits to rebuild or replace the solenoid itself rather than the whole thing. What engine is it?

Got a video of what those sound like? Mine is a bit meh. It's new and it works, it's just not what a landy horn should sound like

Shouldn't be noticeable in this weather, you'll only really need glow plugs once it starts getting cold again

Finished off the wee unit for my stove in the back. Felt I needed something a bit more substantial to go with my roof tent so now I can make a brew and cook dinner at the same time!

Knock yersel oot lol https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-CAR-CAMPER-BOAT-OFF-ON-ON-3-POSITION-ROTARY-SWITCH-SPLASH-PROOF-/401152625289?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

It's a GM era Saab 93 Sportwagon I've got. Literally the best 250 quid I've ever spent. That cars never broken down, never let me down, and that was with me doing a 50 mile commute every day for my last job. I'd bought it (and couldn't believe the price) to do me while I was rebuilding a lot of...

Just a pollen filter. The one on my saab was manky and saturated so I took it out and never replaced it. Less chance of it getting clogged up with water and seizing the blower motor again

What's it connected to? It most likely wouldn't have any function in a defender, the loom is pretty simple and you don't need many wires

Take the rear prop off and go for a drive. If it still clunks you can more or less discount the rear end. Have you checked the a frame balljoint? I was chasing a clunk on mine and replaced parts that did need replacing but ended up tracing it to the main culprit - the a frame balljoint. Replaced...

Just a thought but the rear door hinges are a more robust design with easily replaceable hinge pins and ball bearings. I know there were very similar (if not identical) fitted to Series doors but the problem would then be how to mount the mirrors? I've never seen a rear door sag or end up...

As requested. I got rid of the lever that controls the flap and low/high settings as frankly its utter crap and I've never closed the vent in my almost 10 years of Land Rover ownership. I bought a Durite 3 position switch - off, low and high. Connected the positive and negative from the existing...

Go to your local motor factors and just buy the bits. They'll most likely be far better quality than kits that bearmach or ****part do. You won't need a lot - enough engine oil for a full change, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, ep80 and atf to top up your diffs, transfer box and gearbox...

I'll send a pic or video once I'm home. You'll be astounded and impressed lol

For the amount of time you actually use the flap I wouldn't worry about it. I did away with my one that controls the speed and vent closed entirely and replaced it with something far better. The only time I turn the temp to cold is in the summer and its rare I'll use the lever to adjust the...

The fact there's no actual bearing of sorts in there either really doesn't help and it's just a dry pin with no way to internally lubricate it besides the occasional spray of grease or WD40

The DVLA site tells you all you need to know with regards to cost of road tax. It's entirely dependent on the age of the vehicle and the engine size. Go look it up instead of getting people on here to do it for you, it's freely available and easy to find

Epoxy it on

Unsure, I think they're just insufficient for the job they're supposed to do. You can buy ones with greasable pins but again those cost a fortune. Companies make far better improved rear door hinges yet the front door hinges all follow the exact same pattern and i don't care if they're made from...

I've never seen affordable new hinges that don't already have unwanted movement in them. It's a joke