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I originally had a Dayco fitted but was trying to chase the source of a squeaking noise. I replaced it with another unbranded one which had more play in it and made the noise worse. I sent that back and they sent me a far better oem spec one at no extra cost and the quality was leaps ahead of...

You can get a dial gauge from Halfords and they're cheap. You need one for doing the cylinder head bolts anyway

I'll bet any money the connections at the back of the fuse had been pushed out a bit as well. I've had this problem plenty times

You can unbolt and replace them but I'm sure it involves jacking apart the chassis rails slightly which doesn't sound fun

Are you able to get it into gear and drive at all? Has the diff lever been knocked partially into neutral?

Do yourself a favour and bin your Haynes manual. They're OK for beginners but the actual land rover workshop manuals are far better and easily available online

Try changing the relay

Did you correctly shim and tighten the pins? When rebuilding the hub with new bearings you need to check the preload and adjust accordingly. I'm wondering if you've overtightened the left hand side or put too few or too many shims in

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I've no idea what half those wires are for. All you need is a permanent live, switched live, earth and then your speaker cables. That's it

Just do what I did and cut one to fit. I had a brownchurch traditional style roofrack so I cut it to suit my rooftent. You can usually pick those ones up pretty much anywhere and they're cheap

What is it?

That frame will probably be for a 200tdi if it's to fit a disco 1. Get yourself to a scrappy and find one off a disco with a 300 and it should fit. As for changing the radiator it's a piece of ****. Disconnect everything from the old one. Slide it out (might as well take out the intercooler and...

Ive driven with them squeaking but I generally don't let it continue for long. I've had a rear one go as well in my last 90 but thankfully wasn't going fast at all so there was no damage. The time it happened on the dual carriageway it had basically sheared the yoke at the transfer box end and...

I probably wouldn't. If its bad enough then get it replaced ASAP. I've had one go on a dual carriageway, come up through the drivers floor and punch a hole in the chassis rail. Not fun

Check your A frame balljoint as this is usually the cause. Failing that lift each wheel and look for play in the drive flanges as these wear and can cause a clunk. Are your UJs in good condition?

Ah it won't be a NAS motor then, although they are available in this country now and again. Those lights do look a lot better than the standard ones, if it were me I'd keep them but you'd probably fetch a decent amount selling them

If its an NAS spec motor keep it, they're not too common anymore

Nobody likes having their shaft peeled

Wouldn't fitting the bushes directly to the shock mount just wear them out pretty quickly? I've never seen shocks fitted without all 4 washers on it but I don't know if fitting is different for newer Defenders.