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My apologies you're right. I think the older ones had the railko bushes before changing to the bearings

Have you checked the thermostat and are you running the engine sitting on a pallet? These engines take a good while to heat up and sitting with it at idle you'll be waiting almost an hour before it heats up sufficiently. Take the thermostat out and test or replace, they're not expensive

https://www.lrworkshop.com/blog/defender-replace-axle-swivel-balls-housing

The swivel balls have never changed. From the very first 90 up to a 2016 Puma Defender they're exactly the same. Whether you fit Teflon balls or chromed balls is upto you

Even if you take out the boost ring and pin all of those other mods should give you a much sweeter running engine with plenty of power (standard power probably but better than what you're getting just now). Mine is standard and is nippy and fast (for a Defender) so I'd be looking at the mods and...

Yup

Green and purple is your LH brake light, which you said was working?

Bloody daylight robbery charging you 150 quid for bugger all. You shouldn't need the pump fiddled around with, if you're low on power and chucking out black smoke then you've got other issues

Just a thought as I can't remember but is the red and black the sidelight?

Aye true, I've just been busy and it's no fuel which doesnt help lol but I'm off at the end of this week so it's getting taken out camping for a night or two. If you need a hand or any bits let me know, I'm sure I've got some spare parts lying around

Heehaw. Moved it around the driveway a little bit and that's it. Need to get it out for a drive before I forget what it feels like

Is there a wire broke inside? I lost my rear light on just the left. Pulled everything out, tested all the wiring and couldn't find a cause as there was no voltage. Pal of mine works in auto electrics and he felt along the wire (which looked intact to me) and at one point very easily pulled it...

Probably one of the best places you can buy the kit from, it won't be cheap crap

Aye, they're not expensive and they tend to wear around where the seal sits and it'll cause it to leak. Oh and refit with new seal, nut and fibre washer. Get a good quality oem seal too

You'll probably find that just sealing the system makes a massive difference. Most people overlook it when trying to improve the heating and instead focus on the heater matrix itself. The heating in my 1996 110 is brilliant

Remove the prop and handbrake drum. Take out the speedo drive. Remove the oil seal, big nut and washers, take the flange off then the big circlip that holds in the bearing. You can then either use a slide hammer to remove the shaft with the bearing on, or loosely refit the flange and nut and...

Just cut your own using that as a template, it's just a bit of plastic with screw holes in

I just eyeballed it. Never even thought about having a plate to screw over the hole but all the same I guess

I cut one in mine to make it easier to access the top of the 110 300tdi tank. I just cut out a square section, hinged it, stuck a wee catch on and it works fine. It's hidden under the matting so you don't even know its there

Stick 12v to them as well and find out. Might need a switched live