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An update: I haven’t had time to strip the door cards out but think I’ve at least identified which corner the fault is. If I sit with the front passenger door open to the halfway stop the car will happily sit there not clicking. If I closed the door by a few mm it’ll start clicking. Push it...

All of the DOT standards are based on the American FMVSS 116 specification - DOT being the American Dept Of Transport. Class 6 is a low viscosity variant of DOT 4 I’ll stick with straight DOT 4, I expect if LR had wanted D2’s to switch to LV brake fluid after the handbooks were printed there’d...

From what I’ve read any benefit of LV would only be felt when the modulator is actually activating ABS/TC etc, no benefit under normal braking. I’ll go with standard/classic Dot 4 this time seeing as Class 6 isn’t specified. Yes, I went down the boiling point rabbit hole too. The handbook...

Thanks So basically unplug one lock at a time and see if the unlocking stops?

Mine’s an FL1, looks like that level of diagnostic isn’t available to me then. I’ve got a Nanocom for my D2 but just had a look and it won’t work with the FL1.

I’ve got a Hawkeye (not the Pro), can’t find any body fault codes. Do I need more than Hawkeye is capable of? If you mean within the EWS 3D menu I can’t access that. I have the correct 5077 adapter the Hawkeye asks for but keep getting “communication failed” every time.

Don’t know if I’m overthinking this but as I’m about to flush the brake fluid should I use good quality standard Dot 4 or low viscosity (Dot 4 Class 6)? It’s seems LV brake fluid is recommended for vehicles with ABS / TC and ESP if fitted. My 2006 Freelander 1 specifies Shell ESL Donax EB which...

I hope for my sanity somebody can point me in the right direction. 2006 Freelander 1 HSE and when unlocked it’s repeatedly unlocking and clicking all the passenger doors but not the boot. I’ve had this before but it stopped some months ago before I could find the fault. Several months have...

Unfortunately I don’t have access to a second torque wrench. I’m considering buying a 1/2” 60-200Nm torque wrench but clearly the ranges are no good to compare.

Does anyone here get their torque wrenches calibrated and if so any recommendations on where (in the UK) and the approx cost? I know they’re supposed to be calibrated every 12 months or 5000 cycles (whichever soonest) but I doubt that happens much for DIY use. I have a Halfords Professional...

I think the td5 handbooks have changed oil specification through the years. I’ve seen some members like yourself post that B2 is also suitable, the handbook for my 2004 D2 td5 says A3/B3 can be used (pic below). There’s no stipulation as to semi vs fully synthetic in my handbook either...

Thanks everyone. Mine is sealed and looks fresh with no sediment so I’ll chuck it in with some de-ionised water.

I’ve got a sealed 5l can of concentrated Triple QX red antifreeze and a sealed premix. Does this stuff have a limited or indefinite shelf life? Cheers Edit: They’re over 5 years old

Me again Wondering if this is the Holy Grail, a VW 505.01 oil (I believe the “.01” is PD) that isn’t C3 (I know there’s debate about C3 being suitable for td5’s)...

Sorry to open the wound of an old thread but there are so many oil threads I decided against another. I’ve used Triple QX Premium semi synthetic 5w30 for years but leaning towards fully synthetic PD now, the following looks a decent shout on eBay, would it be OK? I’ve driven myself stupid with...

Yes, I appreciate what you’re saying, I know it would need SLS setting to spring or air plus calibrate the height settings. I can’t access any of that, it’s in the background with a black box covering it in the foreground hung on “working”. I’ll try and link a video later or tomorrow. I just...

Ah, that’s me stuffed then. I thought SLABS were plug and play. Maybe only pre programmed ones are plug and play and brand new ones need the Testbook.

Ignition on. Sitting on axle stands under the chassis at the moment, a drive would be a balls ache. I’ll pump the air up using the old SLABS and see if that does anything. I assume from your reply it should be plug and play?

Sorry for the long delay again, been quite under the weather (not COVID). I managed to buy a new boxed SRD500070 SLABS ECU at a good price. It looks as though it’s never been fitted as the brackets are all scratch free. Without fitting it I just swapped the plugs but my Nanocom won’t load if...

I have the glove box and kick board out but I can’t see a grommet to get outside, do I need to remove the side trim too (just trying to leave as much in tact as possible). Fortunately the SLS wires are to the first plug on the SLABS and the wires are almost added on top of the loom so easy to...