Search results

Diagnostic live data shows Lambda / oxygen sensor voltage appears not present @ 0.00v, continuous flatline during a short test drive....no fault code is logged?

(NB: most online sources suggest the U3000 code usually has more numbers, e.g. U3000 - 35, where the last 2 digits elaborate on the fault found.....but the LR2 scanner named the fault as Current control Module.)

Still getting to grips with the Icarsoft LR2 scanner. One of the selectable modes/tabs, shows an arrow similar to a "play icon"...and when pressed revealed several files stored on the device....unfortunately these files aren't dated, but scrolling through to the last file, this has a U3000...

Back to throttle body absolute throttle position..took the car on quick jaunt whilst hooked up to the scanner... Surprised to see ....max value at 83. Min value 76 percent..? Valve not shutting when throttling off?....?

Thanks, Grumpygel.. Yesterday I ordered an AGM battery (as Nodge first suggested) I,m new to Stopstart cars and maybe, just maybe..the BCM or ECU knows the battery isn,t behaving like an AGM ?.....while I,m waiting for the AGM I plan to investigate the BMS ....will get back as soon as anything...

I put that the battery light on the dash stays illuminated when the car is started warm.70degrees+..in truth the light goes out for 10 seconds after starting, then comes on....(might be something?)

Got car too 73degrees c, then switched off engine...........unplugged the throttle body........started up,,,,,,, same battery light on...gonna try this with other components...

Replaced the alternator, (with the one from the old removed engine)....and still get the same symptoms ..( maybe 2 faulty alternators, what would be the chances?) When the car is up to temperature ( diag in battery monitoring mode)......and engine running/charging at 14+ volts.at idle. Instead...

Alternator tested at 0.7vAC

Yes the valve opens and closes....no stripped gears...yet , but sometimes doas quite a dance before shutting down...I have the LR2 scanner, which shows absolute throttle, certainly worth a check.....suppose live data record should highlight something?....I've never used that feature before, but...

Update on my Freelander cutting out. Whilst I'm confident the CPS is fine now, the car continued to cut out after several miles, with a, no throttle response and red battery light. I thought the "pwm wire", ( plug at the back of the alternator ) may be causing the issue so i disconnected it...

Ha, yeah I can believe it...I will be keeping a spare sensor in the car until I can get a degree of confidence in the engines reliability. I get what your saying re bigger starter for stop start feature, though I believe the AGM's are for regular stop starting scenarios, high charge/discharge...

The CPS connector disassembly was reasonably straight forward. as a safety measure I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY FIRST before jacking the nearside front end of the car up to place an axle stand under the front subframe, removed the offside front wheeI and inner liner, then popped off the CPS...

Thanks for reply. (Nodge68) The battery is around 6 months old and holds a good charge, but never say never as they say....I disable eco mode on the dash before setting off as its lead acid and not AGM....but I'm thinking (for now) that the heavy current draw from the battery after the ECU...

My maiden drive in the project Freel2. The car drove for 3 miles, with vague steering, a light drone under footwell and another deeper drone from the rear....but quite responsive on the throttle.. The car eventually cut out going up a hill...and would not restart.. Coasted in reverse (luckily)...

Hi, firstly I'm a newbie to Freelander 2's and this forum, but reading this thread prompted me to sign up as a member. My 2010 td4e 150k on the clock has just had an engine transplant....here's why.. I bought the car as a none starter/runner project and originally attempted to find/diagnose the...