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The wire insulation was trimmed back to reveal black oxidised copper, which the solder wouldn't stick too... Trawled the web for best way to clean oxidised copper and a YouTube video created by Ed China ( Wheeler dealers) suggested a white vinegar and salt solution. So soaked the wire nearest...

Yep, blue/white wire is about worn all the way through. Withdrawing the loom into the boot isn't an easy option, as the wires shown are spliced into a bigger loom travelling to the OS diesel tank. There appears no easy way to effect a good - easy repair, Think soldering is best - but will...

Appreciate the response Arctic 2. The difficulty in access seems the next hurdle, but with any luck, we've found the 1 amigo cause. (Access is improved when the haldex module is removed)

Aye Grumpygel, yep - a farmers car - with high miles, which is probably borderline scrap, though engine sounds like its never wanted for oil. In fairness I only wanted the all terrain tyres for my black freelander, but have grown to like the Caspian blue colour and trying to give the car a new...

May have found the culprit.. working back from diff module connector, probably circa 400mm up the cable Situated directly above the haldex, the cable disappears over the rear sub-frame Access is tight, so might try removing some cable ties then withdraw the whole harness...

I've gone with TTforum's Haldex Loom testing protocols (and jumped straight to the CANBUS checks) The picture below is a copy of the first CAN line checks to do, before the pin 8 to pin 7 check.. With my meter, the resistance check values seem to be :- Pin 7 (CAN Low) to pin 2 (Gnd) 980ohm...

Update I'm part way thru swapping diff control modules around...and was thinking:- As 0136 code may be related to (Can Bus) poor wiring between haldex and ECM, I've looked at easier ways to identify any continuity issues. Apparently an ohms test on the wiring between ECM & diff CM may be...

Re- front end rattles (up-date) NS & OS control arm lower ball joints have failed & trailing bushes have excessive movement. (New control arms/wishbones and both inner tie/track rods are on order.) Back end rattles Rear NS shock had so much movement, the wheel could be rocked in and out...

I've had a closer look at both units (photos below) ... and there are indeed subtle and glaring differences in the casing and equipment... The first image is the ( Santorini) black FR2's Haldex (on the garage floor) The second image is the Haldex in the (Caspian) blue 2007 car The oil...

Thanks Freddie, yes, the older Freelanders haldex should be stock gen 3, and 2010 gen 4.....though side by side, both units are physically identical. Both haldex units have the same pump and filter position, see link below https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk The site led me to think both cars...

TBH, my Freelander has more rattles than Baby Care at present.

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Hard to speculate really, though the inner track rods have a gator covering the ball joint. Suppose finding play on this ball joint may not be immediately noticed like other bushes/ball joints around the car, unless specifically checked for. Think, tracking a car with existing play in the...

Thanks Arctic 2

Good question (Alteredtech)...The pre-owned module is off my original 2010 (Santorini black) Freelander 2, which has no _ All terrain codes or warning lights, despite the haldex clutch pack locking up the rear wheels.and a whining diff. The diff from the black FR2 is now on the garage floor...

Recently took my new (to me) Freelander 2 for a shakedown run and soon realised the car was pulling to the right --- indiscriminately. I remembered this thread and thought..torque steer....??? .maybe?.. After jacking the front off the ground, I noticed the OS front wheel had play...

mmmm,,,,,changing the diff/haldex module didn't change anything code wise, but fair shout (Arctic 2). I trawled a few threads to check if coding was needed but found nothing to support coding the module, the link below talks about the haldex module...

Throttle body was found defective and replaced. MAP sensor changed as original was broke at the stem..no more engine codes at present. Still have the amber terrain light.

Decided to get an eBay clone JLR mangoose cable and SDD v160,,,coming from china so may be a week or 2,s wait. At the very least I may be able to sort the radio out?

Thanks for the reply Nodge.