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D2 Failed MOT on ball joint and indicator wrong colour (?) which I'm pretty happy with. An advisory was the rust on the rear of the chassis. Will do the usual clean and Lanoguard, but I'm thinking it might be an idea to learn how to weld!

I recently had the engine rebuilt, usual issue. Got them to MOT it while it was there. Got it back, did the 800 miles before oil change, got the change done and big clangy noise developed. Went back under warranty, garage said it's done 3600 miles before the oil change so can't be repaired under...

Is the relay the one on the far right in the fuse box?

Is there an easy way to test the relay? I guess put a voltage across it and see if the circuit stays closed...

No...:oops:

Yep have swapped with another. Completely new (OEM*) unit but has an identical fault. May be the high current feed, as you said. Would make sense. Thanks I'll investigate that. * - not actually OEM - that's an overused term, but you know what I mean

Had been running fine although the starter had seemed weak, went to start a week or so ago and got "tick tick tick" from the starter, but engine didn't turn over. Battery was low after not running for some months, so tried first with a jump pack and then with a jump from another car, same...

I've a feeling an EV conversion would be too expensive. I'm not sure a TD5 would have enough power for that car, but given the engine is the worst bit of the D3/4 I'd be tempted if anyone offered a TD5 conversion.

Pretty impressive if it wasn't!

Wow! Well done for finding that. What a nightmare! Hope the testing goes well :)

QP has the best reputation. I know people who have used them and speak very well of them. However their prices have gone up recently, same as everywhere I guess. To rebuild a running engine with their custom made components is now £7k for a 3.0 TDV6 and £7.5k for an SDV6 - all plus VAT. (I think...

Funny you should ask - just gone back under warranty. Loud crank-speed clanging which started during a test drive following the 800 mile oil change.

I would agree, except when I cleared them the lights went off. I'll try to check the connections, thanks.

Not yet, but it's on the to-do list. How can I tell if they're blocked?

I have a Hawkeye. I read the main ECU codes before, probably why they didn't seem relevent. Read the transmission codes: P1843 and P1842 (CAN bus). However I was able to reset successfully, so if there is a CAN bus connection fault it must be intermittent.

Yeah did that, there were some codes but nothing that seemed relevent. But I could have missed one so I'll do that again tomorrow, thanks.

While I'm at it... I've noticed the passenger footwell is often wet. I had thought it was due to leaking sunroofs but these have now been resealed and are perfectly dry. It appears to be clear water with no smell so I'm thinking it's probably air-con condensation. I think it's coming from the...

I saw that, thanks. An alternative to the windscreen wiper test is: do the reverse lights come on? (No) Or do the parking sensors come on? (No).

I'm due to swap out my XYZ switch with a refurb one (refurbed by me), just haven't done it yet as I don't have the wrist articulation required! However today - ironically while demming the car to the daughter of the guy I'm trying to get to help me change the switch - the S and M lights started...

That post was 11 years ago, to be fair.