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Hi again all. I have painted the seat box on my 110 rebuild but not the tub, both of which are currently not fitted. I’d like to now fit the seat box and all the floors forwards, but I don’t want to fit the tub yet as it’s not been worked on. Would this work, or would I have to take the seat...

Just finished treating the chassis inside and out with Lanoguard. It’s very easy to apply and when dry, leaves a waxy surface that’s a matt finish. Hopefully it’ll protect as good as it smells.

The worst part of it for me is that there’s no drain in the lowest part of the shield. The water had obviously collected in the recess in the shield and rotted the bottom of the tank. There’s a drain in there now!

Tanks back in and I thought id share my technique as it’s not that easy on your own. I first installed just the tank without the shield, only really caring about the upper rubbers and the nuts on only loosely. This way you don’t have to worry about the weight of the shield. I then strapped the...

Applied Lanoguard to the renovated chassis today. Hope it’ll last another 35 years now. HNY everyone.

Hey y’all ;-) I’m going to put the diesel tank back in the 110 shortly along with its protective shield. I cannot remember if the shield is hard up against the bottom of the tank or if it’s the other side of the bottom rubber mounts (between parts 9 and 10). Could someone take a look for me...

Haha I like your optimism :-) It’s good paint, and I did Kurust it so let’s see.

You’re quite right :-)

I think it was worth the effort. Let’s see if it lasts.

I’m finishing off the rear axle in the restoration and I was considering painting the outside if the hubs. It’s got rear drum brakes, so is it a total waste of time to paint them dya think? I was going to use the chassis paint but maybe VHT would be better. Thoughts? Cheers, Jim

Well all’s well that ends well (as someone once said), but there was a bit of swearing on the way. It seems that the flange on the new ‘improved’ pinion hub rubs on the nose of the diff which was what was causing me my problems. Mike from Britannica discovered the same thing. If your fitting...

These videos are both for rover diffs and mine is a Salisbury. Not sure what mikethebuilder has.

They were both bought at the same time but the one not in use wasn’t as good fit and needed reaming. I’ve now seen it’s also shorter as described.

All good thanks. I have a dial torque wrench so that’s not a problem. I have made a tools to lock the flange so that’s not a problem either when doing up the nut. I have a second unused crush sleeve (be prepared!) but what’s concerning me is that it as-new length is less than that of the...

I’m leaning towards the old crush sleeve being worn now and giving me a false idea of how long the new one would end up. The old sleev is indeed belled out at each end which looks like possible wear. I have a suitable dial torque wrench to set the preload but your water idea is sound. Thanks...

Understood. I think I meant that the length of the tube maintains the bearing separation which is what sets the preload? So the tube is passively maintaining the gap whilst allowing the nut to be torqued to stop it all coming undone. Is that what you said? I’m still worrying why the original...

Ok so I’m looking at it from the viewpoint of the original being correct, but you are right. If the original was very worn then there’d be a load of end float and a lack of pre-load, and the new crush being +1.5 could be correct. I wish I’d checked it beforehand. Hindsight hey :-)

I completely agree with you, and if the numbers had added up I’d have done just that. Having stripped it, I just don’t understand how come the new crush sleeve is longer than the old one by so much. Maybe I’m over thinking it.

My brain is telling me that with what I have now (+1.5mm), if the original spacer was back in it would be locked up solid. It doesn’t seem right.

Understood When I got the original preload set and then I inspected the crush sleeve, it had only shortened by 0.5mm, and still 1.5mm longer than the original. What I don’t get is how a 1.5mm difference could occur unless the original setting was really out. I guess that could be the case...