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Mine are Allmakes from Wick 4x4, long term eBay dealer, so should be OK. I’ll check alignment and see if that’s the problem. Loosen screw, wiggle joint, the usual procedure.

You previously mentioned fatter ones - do you have the spec perchance? While I have the joint apart, may as well fit the best…

The old ones were perished, hard, and broke when removed. I fitted new Britpart ones, bought off ebay, what could possibly go wrong…

The leak suddenly got worse. See the photo - looks like the o-ring joint is leaking and coolant runs down the end of the matrix. But the screw is tight. I guess I’ll take the joint apart and see what’s wrong. Does the joint look OK and correctly settled in place? Or is that top pipe not quite...

Let me double-check the leak and if the matrix is leaking I’ll buy it off you… thanks! UV dye is on order to do some leak detection…

Oh dear, the coolant leak has returned. I took off all the panels etc - the allen bolt is still tight and there is no leaking coolant on and under that o-ring joint. The leakage seems to be under the matrix itself - looks like a new matrix required. Maybe a previous airlock has just cleared...

The shop is showing zero stock of anything, and looks to be defunct. Pity - I got a fob code filter (not rf - it works between the receiver and the BECM so is frequency-agnostic) and it certainly solved the battery drain issue.. Maybe some scrappy will have one? If you are going to ignore your...

My approach would always be to fit appropriate wheels, not pimp the old girl. Fitted with factory option Stratos wheels and slightly oversize Geolandar tyres on receipt. Slight benefit with that size of tyre is the speedo is more accurate…

Follow-up comments: After one cold-hot-cold cycle, the fixing bolt was definitely a bit looser, although the joints were not leaking. I tightened it up and it has stayed tight, so I fixed the panels back in place. I left the pad in place as a tell-tale, and will pull it out after I am confident...

Yes, of course - thanks. I’ll check tightness a few times and when/if stable, will put the panels back on. I am leaving a puppy-pad in there with the lower edge just protruding so can see if any leaks restart, as well as soaking up anything that escapes.

hmmm - I went the other way, with copper grease. Might remove the bolt carefully and use medium strength loctite. As with many things on a P38, it’s like defusing a bomb. With no pressure in the system, what could possibly go wrong…

Quick update - interesting (well, sort of…) - after a run about the place, I checked the fixing bolt and found it was not tight. Not leaking, but definitely needing tightening. As it is an M5 into aluminium, I am tightening to 2.2 Nm. Bearing in mind comment above, glad I left the panels off and...

Job done.. Set up with polythene sheet, absorbent mat, fluid guide (cut-away plastic bottle), washing-up bowl, safety bund consisting of a suitably pink bath towel. Following the tips and guidelines, I used an “I’m not asking” screwdriver with PZ2 bit, very carefully lined up and applied...

exactly so… correct size stainless Allen screw (M5 x 25 mm) is on order … and will use copper grease too. Just wanting to remove the screw cleanly before binning it.

Getting closer to changing the o-rings, subject to Royal Mail ever condescending to drop a new pair of the little blighters through my letter-box. To give the fixing screw little or no chance of declining to release the pipes from the matrix, I have ordered a 12” 1/4 hex extension and will use...

All sorted, a bit of leverage and some wiggling. Never thought of getting it out upwards, I just looked at where the previous owner had broken the various mountings, loosened those screws and took it out downwards. Instruments were already out, and left hand bracket too. As per above comments...

All was going well, I discovered that the down pipe had already been cut, and then sealed with sticky-backed foam. I freed off the joint and rotated the upper part, but I cannot remove the lower part. Can’t get it past the lower joint - see photo. Any tips?

Project creep.. that’s the correct and thorough approach but time is pressing as ever. It’s just two dodgy o-rings after all.

I might try my soldering iron blade tip for starters, and have the Stanley knife ready…

very late additional comment - worth putting UV dye into the coolant if checking for leaks…