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14CUX is very, VERY simple and actually generally reliable. Megasquirt is a very steep learning curve, as is any kind of engine conversion. If you can't do the bare basics, getting halfway through something 1000X more complex and discovering as issue is going to mean the same situation, which...

There should be a hose from the vent hole, to the exterior. One BMW E34's, with the battery under the back seat, it seems to be common that people would do the same thing and have them expolde eventually. There is usually an little elbow that fit's into the vent hole and discharges gasses...

If the door seals are iffy, replace with D2 ones - 1000X better. At the base of the windscreen, there is a massive hole, sealed with the seam ****ty sealer they used down the seams behind the front wings. I'd have thought the windscreen fitters would have found it if it was an issue, but if...

That should be coolant though - not water...

On a disco 1??? can just about gaurantee the seams up the A pillars have sealer that has cracked and causing rust, plus at the windscreen base there is a massive gap and the sealer will have cracked and lets rain in. From the windscreen base, under the scuttle and right down the A pillar ...

There have been recalls on a number of stands *similar* in design to those, above. Broken welds. broken locks, cracks on folds etc. I have 4 big iron base mothers, from probably the 50's or 60's. Huge threaded shaft and a spinny wheel-nut thing to adjust them. Apparently you can still buy...

Having water run down there isn't really the issue... it's the seam sealer they used - it's dried out, cracked and holds water./moisture behind itself, on the panel. The whole lot needs stripping off, rust removed and re-sealed with a modern urethane or modified polymer sealer. The factory...

Get rovergauge. make or buy a cable. Download the ZIP from Github. It's free, except the cable, but I think they were 4o pounds on ebay, or about half that to make, but you have to get all the bits. 14CUX has no "limp mode" in the traditional sense. If it's not running right, it's reading...

The MFU probably directly triggers the relay in the drivers footwell (RHD). My relay was faulty - replaced and intermittent came back.

It won't need a MAF then; just a replacement spring, every now-and-then.

Perhaps there is a lip in the rear of the cavity, so the seal is pressed all the way back?

None of my mates mentioned doing a ram raid on Thursday... but I haven't talked to them lately, because we've all been getting ****ed for the holidays 🤣 One of the Anaesthetists at work reported his car stolen... after a couple of drinks with workmates... The cops called him several days later...

ACE?

"The van was slowing down on a hill, so I pressed in the left pedal, so the revs could go up for more power..." "PUT IT IN H"!

What grade oil do you have, and how cold is it before start up? Oil is always thicker when cold, so it can take longer to flow - hence the invention of multi-grades. Engines don't actually need oil *pressure*, they actually require flow and the pressure is a rough indicator of flow. If you...

And make sure the timing is the same as it was (or at least, correct). If it's firing early, it might slow the crank speed down further, and prevent starting.

Have a look at the wire, while you change it and make sure it's still insulated near the plug - the insulation can go brittle and if it touches a grounded item it could trigger the light too.

Yeah, not a daily, but usually used every friday. 1997 V8 auto, Jap spec, in NZ. Did a bit of rescuing at the Mountain Bike park today. Local Boys High School had a teacher only day, so half the school was over there... massive off for one of them, so the Disco was ferrying kids back to my...

Take all out. LABEL the wires! I'd remove the fuel pump or injector fuse/s too, so it isn't pumping in fuel.