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I put ceramic pads in the front... and they nearly STOPPED working at all! Even after a couple of thousand miles of bedding in. ABS wouldn't activate, even in the wet, if I tried! Changed to TRW "Cotec Premium" and they work REALLY well. I can activate the ABS in the dry! Maybe you have...

I can only "ASSume" the reader says ECU1 for bank one and ECU2 for bank 2. That does narrow it down a bit, if the fault is generally on bank 2. Those Long term trims suggest it's running similarly on both banks, when driving at least. Vacuum leaks affect idle sooo much more, because the engine...

That is true for EFI too. Both things.

Your error codes *suggest* that it's been trying to richen the mixture, but it hasn't worked... Exhaust leaks near O2s will cause erroneous readings - air gets drawn in and makes the system look lean, so it tries to richen it up... making things worse. You need to look at what the long term...

Which engine? There's a good handful of models that are **** and destroy themselves merrily.

Holy crap, that looks nice! Mine gets rustoleum spray cans... and I don't usually even sand it first, just a quick broom over 🤣

Compression test.

The Honda badged ones? They were a "Crossroad", only made as pre-facelift (90% sure) and hardly any of them. D1's come in quite a range of dilapidation here. The ones at the pick-a-part breakers are always rusty hulks, used on the beach and dumped. There are some really tidy ones. Some of the...

Here in NZ, Discovery 1's have autos, probably, 9 times out of 10. Lots are used imports from japan, but even sold new here - most were autos.

I had that with Repco ceramic pads ere in NZ. Paid good money for them too. Ended up getting "clearance" TRW front pads and cheap "silverline" for the rear. 6 sets of fronts and 4 sets of rears was Under NZ$30 (15 pounds!) 🤣 The ceramics wouldn't active the ABS, even in the wet. The TRWs will...

The gearing on a V8 auto disco 1 ruins the performance potential anyway. Mine will get to 60 MPH pretty quick for an old crapper, but it'll hold on to 2nd well past that! First gear will go to a bit over 35mph,at 30 MPH, a hard push on the throttle will kick it down first! It's a bit stupid...

Check for an exhaust manifold leak. They are loud under higher loads, but can be competely quiet at idle. I use a stethoscope, with a long stainless tube on it, and can hear the leaks plain as day.

It's possible. Here in NZ, a lot of 4x4's didn't have the body mounted lights working, only the bumper mounted ones - the body ones didn't have the correct viewing angle, as rear mounted spare wheel obstructed them... so they were blanks. Seems stupid, but that's the rules. Used imports from...

A relative had a Telsa S P100D, towing a fairly light, but boxy trailer cut his range down TO between 25 and 30% of the range doing the same trip without the trailer! His next car was one of those Mercedes SUV+Coupe things, with the twin turbo petrol V8. Towing with that on the same trip...

I'm in NZ, which screws everything up for trasfer case swaps with you :(... but I'd LOVE a 1.4 for my Disco 1 V8. Just be careful with the 1.2 - be sure it'll work out, before spending the cash on it. I'll assume you have manual, which gives an extra ratio to pick from... but gearing too tall...

Up here in northern NZ, it's still that ime of year, where I have the blankets up to my neck... but from the knees down has to be poking out! Still another month, before I can manage to put my weighted blanket back on though :( I really enjoyed your story. It's quite a trip - Tourists don't...

Is it like hard moulded plastic? You could VERY gently run a heat gun over it, that would soften the edges of the scratches a bit. Wurth also do a "bumper dye" that recolours the surface, but doesn't really fill scratches, as suck. It makes it all one shade though. I did the entire dash on a...

I don't know how different the Disco 2 is, but on my Disco 1, the base of the pillar has a big hole, that was filled with sealer when new... then it cracks and lets water in. It's about where the Yellow arrow is on this pic I stole from above: The Red arrow, is another spot where the sealer...

I thought it looks like a rust mark, that been cleaned off. Especially how it looks like a puddle formed at the bottom? Maybe the head gasket leaked a dribble and it sat and rusted the liner. All the other marks look a lot like moisture damage, from sitting, at some point.

On the positive side of the coil should be 3 wires - one for the RF suppressor, one to the ignition module and one is the power feed from the ignition switch circuit to power the coil and ignition module. ARE THEY ALL THERE? It could be something as silly as the power wire fell off :) Forget...