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the results are in:- weld let go on the pinion. I think that I have been incredibly lucky. It that had fallen off and gone round the flex plate or torque converter I think that there's a real chance that it would have smashed it's way out of the bell housing. Everything looks okay on the...

I may have a resolution to my gearbox rattles. We shall see. Yesterday I went to visit an auto gearbox specialist for them to have a listen. They were adamant that the noise sounded like something outside of the gearbox, so inside the bell housing. They said it sounded like the flex plate, or...

not quite true. I haven't cracked the instrument cluster or the cruise control ECU yet

I found "PP-T40" inside the airbox, so it's Polypropylene, a type of thermoplastic. Apparently it's difficult to glue so I will need to weld it.

anyone know what kind of plastic a Freelander 1 air filter box is made from? I need to modify mine to clear a coolant pipe that I added for the transmission cooler.

If I knew which part is causing the noise, I would change it. It has to be either the oil pump or the torque converter. I don't really want a bad part to spread metal through an otherwise good gearbox.

First drive, and according to my friend who was driving (because he has trade insurance to drive anything), it drives very, very nicely:-

No, it was used parts Russian roulette

actually, I just tried it on our TD4, and Hill Descent is supposed to start flashing as soon as you press the button, and then it goes solid once either the 1st or R switches close. But I'm not longer even getting the flashing green Hill Descent light, so, either my Hill Descent button is no...

also, Hill Descent no longer works. I press the button and put the transmission in 1 or R, and nothing happens. Looking at circuit diagrams from the original 1.8 there is a first gear switch (not now connected at all) and a reverse switch (now replaced with relay that the automatic stuff...

I didn't sleep much last night as I was thinking about the noise from my transmission. So, in this scenario:- Engine running In D or R Foot on brake, so wheels not turning I think because it's in gear and the wheels are not turning, then most of the transmission also isn't turning. My...

I'm just a few days from being able to drive this, though I don't like a noise coming from the transmission. Anyone got any ideas where to get modified car insurance for this? I tried Greenlight insurance but they wouldn't even give us a quote.

Are you looking for something that just does the engine ECU? or do you want to spend a bit more and get complete vehicle coverage? The one that I sell covers almost every ECU on a Freelander 1 and I'm UK based. More details here...

Yes it is changing. 12v in P or N, 0V in other positions. I was probing with a voltmeter in the wrong place.

looking at live data from the Immo, there is a parameter called "In gear" It isn't changing whatever I do with the gear selector. I think they must be coded to manual or auto.

Doh, I was probing on the wrong side of the inhibitor switch. When I probe on C0067-7 I'm getting 12V in P or N, and 0v in any other position, but the immo is still ignoring that and letting me start in any gear

changed to Fuse 6 on my 2004 wiring diagram, which is actually how I wired it:-

The circuit diagram says Fuse 35 to header 0292 to the inhibit switch to C0067-7 behind the radio to the immo

I'm pretty happy with this:-

I just had ten minutes spare to check this. I put a voltmeter on the white wire that you mentioned and ignition off it's 0V and ignition on it's 12V, irrespective of where the gear lever is. So I have messed up something. The immo and key chip is unmodified, present, and it's the original K...