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I love the internet, ask a question, get two wildly different answers, no wonder the younguns don't know if they are male or female!

Good to hear you have come out of it okay, hope you are not buying another lr v6!

Welcome to LZ.

Literally nothing. Just look at a few adverts on ebay etc, old land rover discovery/range rover woth big miles = worthless My D3 is on 170k and I reckon it might be worth 2k on a good day, and everything works on it.

Good old AI!

200 vibrate never! Cannot see crank damper effecting anything on the cambelt side.

I think the logic is if they can stand paint/thinners then fuel should not be an issue. Lots of trucks also have a plastic mesh widget on the bottom of the standpipe.

Think series diesel had them on the end of the standpipe. Believe spray gun filters fit?

I am assuming the tacho head unit will be the receiving end for the plugs to er plug into. I am guessing they are not std landrover plugs/loom, so you will need to trace them to see what goes where. As the car is quite old it might have had an analogue tacho which are the type that take paper...

Tacho?

Pics from said green book Pic of diesel bits Pic of petrol bits Could not find chassis pipes for the diesel model This is for an early car so diesel would be 2 litre and not 2.25, unsure on petrol engine capacity

I think this is them, not been on there for a year or two now so it might have changed. https://series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/index.php

This was mine 93 200.

Old crap like we have they use the sticker under the bonnet to set their smoke meter. I have a pic I will find and post up, mine was white approx 30mm square with blakc letters saying something like 1.30.

Green bible has good pics in it. Always worth joining the s2forum,

I have messed around with mine many times over the years, always a juggle to get power and little smoke. Always passes the mot, trick is to remove the sticker under the bonnet, no sticker means mot man has to use max figures (3 I think?) rather than the lower ones on the sticker.

Remove rad top bung Remove bung on top of stat Fill coolant tank until fluid comes out of rad bung Refit rad bung Keep filling header tank until you are at correct level Refit header tank cap Carry on filling coolant through the stat bung until full Refit stat bung and roadtest until to temperature

There are many adjustments you can do on the pump. The top screw and star wheel can both effect off boost fuel delivery, hence why it feels better to drive, but as it is off boost the fuel is not being fully burnt hence your smoke. You will find most adjustments everlap others so it can take...

Simp!

Pics would help, and maybe an idea of what you are after?