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It's not just Landys. My Fiat has been amusing following drivers for a week or so. Left indicator, brake and tail lights alternating with the high brake lamp when I turn left. If I have to slow down too the back wiper joins in. Just one grubby earth connection on the loom to lamp connector...

I can't remember on a Defender, but on mine I'm pretty sure left and right have separate earths.

Optimist. It's never a bulb if I have an MoT booked.

It's a small family business and if you visited and saw how a lot of machinery has been perfectly squeezed into a one man space I think you'd be making a diagnosis. He's a perfectionist.

That really depends on where you are. DAB is certainly a bit picky - I can't get the unit to auto tune at home, but drive a mile away and not only has it done it, but when I get home I can listen to the channels I use. Other than that, there's only one place I regularly go to where the signal...

DAB signal is a bit variable across the country, but I've got the glass sticker ones in two cars which work perfectly, and another I bought a splitter for the existing (roughly 12") aerial that came as standard. In future I'll use those. £20 plus shipping...

Check for splits in the vacuum advance hose.

My 110 came with it on the wings. I'm not a fan so took it off. Of interest to the OP might be that they'd been put on without anything underneath and there was no damage, just a bit of dirt as you'd expect.

I'll go 100/100!

I've had three from Richards, and wouldn't go anywhere else.

I'd be getting arrested while looking underneath cars in car parks. Looking for the one with most ground clearance and independent suspension. Dragging a trailer with live axles around doesn't very sensible to me (weight and restrictive diff clearance).

Having had similar doubts at one time I'd opened up the front to check the swinging coupling. As I recall, it simply can't come apart once the box is back together.

It's about five years since I did mine but I don't recall there being anything like as much play as you have in the second clip. Then again, it can hardly be wear. The only help I can really offer is that I had also run through all the gear permutations perfectly on the bench and I think it was...

I'm torn. It's either riddled or that's black paint where mud has fallen off. Surely the 2nd pic is paint?

I don't think this is relevant, but it caught me out. Have you got the bulkhead on? I fitted this piece the obvious way around. That's wrong and moves the pivot so that the high/low lever can't go forwards properly.

That doesn't look too bad to me, although I can see some flaking and would want to go every inch with a hammer. Got any LR owning friends who could go with you? Or, where is it? One of us might be local.

Certainly true with my Lightweight. All new everything, painful bump steer.

Shimming the top pin is for preload, and will do little to stop the pin sliding around in a worn bush. If there's any significant wear in it you should feel it with the wheel jacked and pulling the wheel (at 12 o'clock) in and out. Probably a bit at 3/9, but 12 worst.

It'll be a short between something that's live and the wire between rev switch and rev light. See if the rev light dims as you switch tail/fog/brake/indicators, and look for others dimming as you do. Engine running btw. That should tell you which it is. The fault is most likely to be the entry...

5515, I'd want to hammer that bulge, looks like a blister forming. 5511 Bottom of rail is not a 'fair' curve (slight peak). If the weld is central along the bottom face of the rail it's original, if the bottom is smooth and welded on the edges it's a repair. The light makes it hard to decide...