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Thanks. Can you remember what they unbolted to get the driveshaft out. The minimum and hopefully not the brake lines !!?? Thanks

Hi, anyone done this? If you take out the bottom tie bar bolts will the hub pull forward enough to get driveshaft out and clear of hub?? Looking to help a mate and all bolts look horrid and rusty along with the brake cylinder bolts and corroded alloy wheel brake cylinder thread. All of which...

The immobiliser module will prevent the starter motor turning, the ECU will prevent starting so presumably you need to delete the ECU immob function and then rewire the starter to operate without the key chip and code. Worth pursuing I think if you can get ECU modified. Not done it but I know...

Tricky one. I read that as 'even if the engine won't run you will be able to unlock the car by buying our product!' However, it won't fix the engine or unimmobilise the immobiliser.

All good for Fobs. No good for keys OP has lost key with chip in.

No, the coil is purely a coil. No coding in the coil and same on all vehicles. The chip in the key which matches the immobiliser and engine ecu has to be present as above.

The key has a chip in the black plastic part of the key. It is this chip that 'talks' to the coil and sends correct signal to the immobiliser module and then to the engine ecu. Without the chip the car will not crank over. Ignition will work OK. Even if you hard wire the cranking it will not...

Good memory GG. Who needs a search engine.!! I remember it now that you have told us, which is how I remember most things 😀

If it is driveshaft then putting more power through it would fit the problem.

From MOT history looks like it needs brake pipes and possibly a rear subframe. If it has no rot to the shell would be interested. Have spare subframe and, as above, pipes are straight forward. What is interior like??

Clue might be n/s driveshaft and n/s causing vibration. Could be a bad shaft fitted, made out of line or not balanced properly ?!?!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388050102390?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ud56_pvrtle&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Like this one 🤔

As one spring was not seated, worth putting a camera up.and checking that they are all seated as a reduced load (Acceleration) could cause them to vibrate if not in seats correctly.

Yes as long as they work or worked with the old set up. Best buy new case or buttons and battery before trying. Both fobs will need to be presented at the programming stage as it re progs them both the same.

Thanks for update. Hope all stays smoke free !

Search ebay. Many suppliers for TD4 Freelander 1. Part number is WAP000080 An example is here.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281587280707?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wKXHYALHTTO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=b5qQSb6hQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Silicon ones are also...

2 jubilee clips to unscrew and swap with new elbow. You've found the problem!!

Looks like the disc brake guard might be catching the disc near the track rod end ? Vibration cause?? Would probably hear it first.

Good news. So to summarise, injector 3 passed the leak back but if black was clearly not sealing properly somehow?? How did you come to suspect injector 3 ?? Hope it stays sorted 😀

Not that then !! Will listen again.