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Standard engine and gearbox I assume, along with new standard mounts? Looking at your picture it all seems too far back by couple inches, or the cross member is too far forward?

Not sure if it's any hep but mine is also in the bottom?

Best plan is to call Berlen Fuel systems, they will be able to answer your questions with far more accuracy than me. SU carburetors rely on engineering tolerance rather than a rubber diaphragm that deteriorates over time, For me I believe SU is about the best carb you can get. However, from...

On the old Rover SD1 3.5 V8's I had with SU HIF6 carbs, the overflow just ran down the front of the engine and exited on the floor, no fuel ever came out of mine. The float should shut off the in coming fuel before this happens. Also if your carb has a diaphragm at the top it's not an SU it...

You'll find the engine moves very little, also there is a 7cm length of silicone pipe either end with around 2cm of movement in the middle of each. Allows for more movement than the engine is capable of.

I've just started making new ones from my S3, though with a Defender front and Mondeo rad, but the idea is the same. For me I gave up with multiple bits of rubber hose and joiners or corrugated pipe, and went directly for fabricating some stainless steel 38mm ones. Stainless steel pipe...

At the far end of the gearstick where it locates into the selectors of the gearbox (opposite end to the knob) should be a nylon ring pressed on. These fall off over time giving a loose feel to the gear change, and a wobbly stick.

Well I had plenty of fun in the mud at the Great Dorset Steam Fair, 600 acres of mud. I was just about able to keep moving with the trailer on the back. Muddy feet And once back home it started to self clean before I attacked it with the jet washer, still saved me some work. Since then...

Taken from the DVLA site, more reliable than 3rd party sites: A rebuilt vehicle can keep its original registration number if you can prove you’ve used: the original unmodified chassis or bodyshell (car or light van) a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the...

I believe you'll still find that metal haylide (often called Xenon) are the most efficient of lighting, when looking at Watt per Lumen. However for a light bar then LED's are definitely more robust.

I thought a Q plate was only issued when you could not prove the age of a vehicle?

Mine has passed the MOT with and without, I think it's a bit like other things on the MOT, if it's fitted at time of test it has to be functional.

Standard brakes are fine if kept in good condition and currently mine are all new and adjusted, also the trailer is braked so stopping was not an issue. Issues with towing only occur with trailers longer than the Landy so in the case of the long car transporter put the tractor forward of...

Some more to the story. The leaky heater that was actually a steam generator during winter and done the opposite of demist the windows has been replaced, with a spare I had sitting in the shed. As you can see from the looks of the old one it was well past it. I then bought yet another...

Ever seen the effect of mixing high concentrations of oxygen with oil? You'll end up with no inlet manifold at minimum. The big advantage with water meth is it cools the burn temp and so reduces emissions. With water meth you can do away with egr's and urea pots, and other emmission controls...

For scrap aluminium at my local its about £30 an engine, so £120 the lot.

I have decided to have a clear out of old engines I've got kicking around the place, I'd rather shift the lot in one go but here is what I've got: Three 11A ex Rover SD1 3.5V8 engines, and one RR classic 3.5V8 EFI. None of these are currently 100% complete, and one of the SD1 engines is in a...

I doesn't matter where you patch the chassis, as long as its a good weld it will pass an MOT.

Here is the adapter that I made for the belt tensioner, I welded this together then to the mounting plate/engine lifting eye thats screwded to the engine behind the power steering pump. And here is the completed system with no aircon or power steering pumps Hope it helps

Do you use the power steering pump? On my flat belt driven 3.9 which I've fitted to a Series 3 88" I've removed both the Aircon and power steering pumps, then relocated the belt tensioner to the power steering pump location. The belt I used was a Gates 7PK1685, the part number you need should be...