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I'm busy converting mine from having a Defender front back to looking like a propper series 3.

I looked into this, and even have the R380 gearbox sat on my garage floor next to a series box, the trouble is the complete thing is still ~100mm longer than a series box. By complete thing I refer to the following in that order: Adaptor Plate R380 stubby bell housing R380 Ashcrofts adaptor...

I'm also +1 for paint stripper, just done mine with the low cost B&Q stuff (Diall) it's slow but works a treat and then jet was and rub the remaining soft flaky paint off with a wire brush in a grinder. As it happens I did replace the rivets, but only because the old ones had been sanded flat...

I'm also interested in this having recently bought a recon R380 with the same idea in mind. Plenty of pics please :-)

Ah, if your not going on the road with it then I see your point.

Why not just buy a proper type approved braked agri trailer axle and use the correct tool for the job?

To be fair, you don't need assistance when driving normally, and you could in effect turn off the EPAS at anything above 5mph. If you could fit a switch that only enables it in 1st and reverse that should be sufficient. Also from a safety point of view in those gears if something did go wrong...

Please make sure you have tested as follows: 1. Only jack 1 wheel on the entire vehicle off the ground at a time 2. Ensure both free wheeling hubs if you have them are set to 4x4 3. Try with both the yellow lever down, and then with the red lever backward (yellow should pop back up) 4...

Is it worth filling the system with a rust eater for a few days then flushing through? It's a shame it's impossible to use the electrolysis method for rust removal in there. Why ever are you shopping in Halfords? There are plenty of lower cost auto-factors around with better product knowledge...

It sounds almost a restoration. Add into that things that will break along the way if none of this has been disturbed for years such as, wing screws and clips, brake pipe's, bleed screws, slave cylinders etc. Do you have spares?

Just to support the standard spring corner... I've been running standard "BRITPART" springs for years on my 88", think I fitted them in 2002/3. Replaced them this year as after 10+ years of towing heavy trailers they were looking a bit flat. Before replacing with more standard springs I tried...

Only just seen this, Wixroyd is who I usually use for all this sort of thing, as you now know, what you have there is a ball and socket type joint. Wixroyd - The UK suppliers of Ball and Socket Joints.

I never thought of Grabcad, could be a good call. I need to finish it first though.

Lovely picture, exactly the sort of thing a Series should be seen doing.

Has anyone drawn Land Rover components in Solidworks, do we have a forum location for these? I currently have my Fairy Overdrive in bit's waiting for some bearings to arrive so decided to reverse engineer a few bits. I'll probably do the whole thing as it doesn't take long. Everything is to...

The output shaft on mine actually moves forwards and backwards when I change first-second without the engine running. I took the Overdrive off and tightened nut to 85LBs and that didn't solve the problem, the bearing still allows a few mm of fore - aft movement, however the gearbox is relatively...

If the bearing is shot that the output shaft is bolted through you'll still get loads of end-float. It's only a standard ball race and so doesn't offer much in the way of axial loading. Later gearboxes were improved by use of taper roller bearings. Luckily it's not expensive for a complete...

Again where are you getting this data, please state grades of steel and stainless for your examples. Look at the yeald of them both. If anything stainless steel is more likely to bend instead of snap than steel. It's just the same idea, look on the head, not complicated at all. In reality...

If this is a series Land rover using imperial fasteners then you will not see an 8.8, or any other numeric designation, they should only have a series of lines on the head. Either nothing, 3 lines 6 lines, possibly 9 but I doubt it.

I'll just carry on doing what I know works without issue, and that's using stainless steel fasteners and copper slip. It's not for Marine, its for land use, which is an order of magnitude different. Trax, please define your statement "stainless isn't as strong as steel" where do you get this...