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An alternative is to forget Land Rover part numbers and get your tape measure out. This is a 7 rib flat belt, so belt manufacturers part numbers will be something in the range of 7PKxxxx where xxxx is the length of the belt in mm, just make sure you make the measurement with the tensioner fully...

It takes me around half an hour to get the top, and door tops off, I have a pick-up rear door that I replace the normal hinged rear door with. I've added the pick-up catches to the upper galvanised capping. This is an easy conversion, and makes no difference when the standard roof is on. First...

All I done was acid etch then top coat, no extra primer was used, looking at old original Land Rovers, it looks like it was done this way from factory. I do agree with above though, acid etch prime will lift most paint it's applied to, etch primer is best put on bare metal, or test first. The...

It still looks to tall, but then my 10 year old multi-leaf rear springs were almost flat after this time. I do load the vehicle up a lot and having it almost sat on it's rear bump stops is not at all uncommon, I'm sure this doesn't help. I wonder just how well para's stand up to this abuse? For...

Hi Rubins4, yes I put another set of Britpart standard duty on there. No issues so far.

Engine bay sorted, that's just about all available space now used up. Looks tidy though Just need to fit a fan cowling now

With galvanising an old bulkhead, is there a way of cleaning the inside parts before dipping to ensure the galvanise sticks to all surfaces, or does the process of hot dipping ensure this anyway? I have a mint series 3 bulkhead that's never been welded, and would like to get it dipped if I can...

Nice weather = more progress :-) Left hand side now done, and right hand side coming back together. Small parts sprayed separate. Radiator sat in place on new mounts. How my garden was looking Nice, so please with the result of choosing to spray the Landy...

Was the chassis dry and clean before you applied it, had you removed all loose paint and rust, are you sure you got complete coverage? How long has it been standing? I can show you a picture of my chassis 18 months after waxoiling, it's been driven all this time including two winters and the...

I like the 12 seater, sold a 1967 series 2A 109 12 seat safari station wagon years ago and wish now that I'd kept it. It would be nice to get that ebay land rover to pass an MOT looking exactly how it does now. :-)

So far I've used waxoil inside my chassis, heated to 60°C and mixed with parafin to thin it a bit. Then blasted into the internals of the chassis with a degreasing gun at 100psi. This atomises the waxoil and seems to leave a nice even coating on all surfaces. You can also see the mist coming out...

There are two ways of reducing NOx, and I think ADBlue or any post burn approach is the wrong way around as your curing the result not the cause. Carbon Monoxide and NOx are created when you burn a fuel fast and at high temp. In the past on Diesel engine emission controls were basically just...

Bottom welded nuts are also used for a rear step. The teo holes that line up with the interior of the main chassis rails are great for waxoiling, the one with the notch can be used for tow electrics, I've not seen any other use for it.

That's a nice finish, I'm only using a low cost HVLP gravity feed gun, but the results are better than I was expecting and more than acceptable for an old Landy. I'm still adding thinners and putting the paint on like water, just lots of light coats, with minimum 3 hours between coats, takes a...

We have colour, and it's shiny :-) After two coats Three coats Fourth and final coat, put on nice and thin, with easily a 3rd thinners Set and hard, this is the only angle I could get to try and show up any orange peal effect, this is nice and smooth. Give it 4 weeks...

There is a big gasket of RTV between the Stainless and the Aluminium, mostly to keep it water proof, but I guess also acts as a barrier. The old one had not only rotted the aluminium out where it was in contact, but also rotted out in the middle from standard corrosion. I think a Stainless...

Simple really, it dry's much quicker, so less dust and less chance of it sagging. 50°C is the max working temp on the datasheet, so at 45°C I'm well inside this

Agreed, if you have gone to those lengths to install your alarm and mobiliser then yes it is going to slow someone down a lot. Sadly though it's not accepted by the insurance companys as you're not an approved installer, however by the sounds of it you have more than done a better job than any...

Yep it's sprayed, I bought a HVLP Gravity feed gun. My big old compressor keeps up with it easy. I have a 3hp, 14cfm, 150L set-up. Yep paint will be heated, but I have a small slow cook oven in the garage that will heat the paint and thinners to about 45 degrees.

Primer going on nicely. Smooth as silk,,,, now to get the DA out again and 400 wet it back ready for top coat.