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Hi Which engine do you have and where is the leak coming from? How have you come to the conclusion its engine oil?

:eek: Its maybe a fact there is nothing on TV so drinking beer and reading RAVE (sort p*rn its not but after 7 or 8 bottles of real ale the beer goggles are on) but I'm understanding how things 'lander are working. I think Landrover designed it on the motto "if something can go wrong it...

Never experienced fitting a MAF compensator or Synergy but am keeping an eye out on ebay for one. The VCU has no gears. Its a unit which when slip in the rear wheels is detected the fluid in the VCU heats up and locks the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft hence transferring drive to...

Hello and welcome The floding mirrors may be a physical fit but they will NOT fold as this function requires new switch on dash and enabling via landrover testbook computer if memory serves. Your 3 warning lights - the 3 amigoes - do a search on here its a common one. And yes I've had it -...

hi SRS is the restraint system of which the seat belt pretensioners are one component. The light coming on indicates a fault in this system and your dealer should be able to determine what is causing the problem. Have you been cleaning under the front seats as pulling wiring connector apart...

tis an option!

Ok another session in the garage tonight to track this fault. Its not engine oil. Because i cleaned everything it was obvious the 'oil' is in fact power steering fluid coming from the gaiters on the rack. Next question - never had a rack in bits so...should there be pas fluid inside the...

Help! I have a strange oil leak on my 2001 TD4. It drips occasionally from the rear of the engine onto the anti roll bar (drivers side) and onto the floor. I have had the beast up on ramps and thought the rubber turbo pipe may have been at fault as it was soaked in oil. Changed it for nice...

No - the operation of the window is not checked. The doors must be capable of being opened from inside the vehicle and tailgates etc must be able to be closed. Full list of whats checked and what isn't can be found here:- MOT check - MOT test information

Do you mean:- The large belt that drives the water pump, power steering pump, alternator OR the other belt that drives the air con pump? The large drive belt doesn't seem to be too bad to change. Bottom engine undertray off, remove o/s front plastic wing protector panel (lower), you will...

it won't have been overfilled from new - some gear oil always settles behind the filler plug to pour out. just have it level (which if you don't have a ramp isn't easy) and undo the plug then add oil until you get the steady stream back out. shouldn't give you too many probs....

The hose / pipe at the top is indeed a breather. Topping up - you have the basics spot on but the car must be level when you do it. You should carefully add the right grade of oil until it trickles back out of the drive unit then stick the filler / level plug in. Never heard of the gear oil...

Hello all. I have had my TD4 brakes tested pre MOT at my firms workshop on site. we have an MOT standard brake tester. It applies drive via friction rollers to one axle per time. You then apply the brakes and it gives you your reading. The weird thing is it does not shoot forwards and the...

Hi If your engine has blown a hose off its likely you have lost a good deal of your original coolant. Credit to you for spotting the hose problem and refilling. I think you have a big air lock in the system. I know on the TD4 there is a vent screw on one of the heater inlet hoses which can...

The hoses are prone to de laminating inside or in laymans terms they collapse when the engine is under load and block the air flow - no air flow = poor performance. If the turbo is coming into operation when you are driving then it cannot (/) be faulty - i would think they either work - or...

Hi If its the same caliper as my TD4 2000 then no you don't have to remove the caliper but you'll need to be at least treble jointed. Its a complete and utter pig of a fiddly job. The seal fits inside a recess in the piston housing and then attaches to the piston itself. The problem is...

The orange / red fluid is your coolant - and it shouldn't hiss - unless the top is loose or you have an overheating problem. The psi figure is quoted as after this the top will allow steam out or you have a big big pressure cooker.

well if ever you happen to be this way!

Well said Ming - theres a check for the drive ratios. Bobbing along at 70mph check the rev counter (in 5th) at 3000 or less = new ratio, 3500 or so = old ratio! I read that on ere somewhere i think n its right as I know...I changed my rear diff!

You're gonna need it on a computer or at least a diagnosic system of some sort to see what the fault codes are causing the light to come on. Where abouts are you? I'm sure there will be someone near you who can help with that? If you're near Hull shout and I'll plug mine in to it for you!!!