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yes the screws are a pain - i normally end up dropping the screw bit down the back of the engine where it drops and lands into the undertray - you then take that off to retrieve your tools! it does sound like nothing has been done - take it back, ask them to show you the air cleaner element...

MOT test is not for CE markings or similar - see:- http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/repository/Towbars%20at%20the%20MOT%20test.pdf Any towbar correctly attached to the vehicle will pass - its a check to make sure it won't rip the vehicle to bits when towing or badly fitted or attached to the...

Also worth bearing in mind that as of 2009 the tow bar and its fixings / anchorage to chassis is part of the MOT test.

I am sure there must be a third party part that is of the same ilk - i think active have three wires - i'll have a word with my wabco stockist if that helps?

As far as I know they are passive - in as much as you fit it and go for a drive for the warning lights to go out! I do know that - so far - still woring at reduced cost so i'm happy :)

Can you find the LR part number on rave?

Sorry i didn't keep the receipt! If I get a chance I'll have a look at the car later. Any of the Wabco sensors will do the job though they are nearly all the same size. Do I take it you are in need of one?

Correct - the land rover and many others are made by Wabco. Its not a bad job to do but if you're not too happy about joining wires etc then you can get a cheaper 3rd party sensor from ebay with the right plug! If you splice in remember to waterproof.... See pics.....

:doh: I would agree - the drive to the rear wheels is nothing to do with the ABS - it is transmitted through the IRD to the VCU then final drive to rear driveshafts. If you've lost this something more major may be wrong - ABS warning lights indicate that the ABS system has detected a 'serious'...

Hi all, I'm sure at some point we all have a faulty ABS sensor...my TD4 (2001) is on number 2 now.... I have made an alarming discovery for the sensors fitted to rear of freelander td4 (1a???? to 1A9999) If you can get the sensor out have a trip to your local Wabco truck part specialist...

Had to renew mine as i bent them.... Old ones you can pull out and clean should you want to or replace. If they seem badly corroded change them but otherwise should be fine i would say

as promised new switch and lead...

Thanks for that - at least I don't have cruise control to worry about! Been to the main stealers for the part and original part XKB000010 has been superseeded by a new switch and cable harness, parts XKB500120 and YMQ503280. Will be fitting tonight so fingers x'd!!! (Photos of new bits to...

Thanks for that - i'll be on the phone to dealers tuesday to get one - its worth a try although on a multimeter it seems to work ok but who knows what it does when plugged in. Whats the other sensor for anyway? haynes says cruise control but i dont have that

thanks chaps - worth a try! let you know how it goes.....

Hi Before you all start shouting I've searched on 3A but not found the answer to my prob so here goes. TD4 2001, 3 amigoes lights on. Sometimes braking hard then re starting the car lets me engage HDC (green light) on. Then when driving off the 3 lights go off. Leave car parked and...

as far as i am aware changing this means removing water pump as it is behind it. you'll need it on axle stands o/s/f wheel off, wheel arch liner off, drive belt off just to get to pump. prob an easy job but like most things labour intensive due to amount of stuff to remove to get to it.

With earlier post a burning (slipping) friction lining on clutch plate will produce a strange smell - a bit like overheated brakes - and takes forever to go away too. Could it also be a brake binding?

either that or take the link to a local industrial hardware supplier - do you have a branch of Bapp near you? They are very helpful in finding me replacement nuts and bolts when i have to cut the originals as they rust solid....:doh: Much much cheaper than the main dealer too!!!

I would go for a bleed of the system first - its cheaper than a new modulator and won't do any harm.