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If you're going to run with the extended shackles and spring hangers that the 1 ton had you may need to notch one of the chassis cross members to stop the prop shaft from hitting it at full droop as per the 1 ton chassis, however your replacement engine and gearbox positions may not require this...

Different chassis, engine and running gear front and back, you're planning on putting this on a Q plate then?

That'll keep you busy for a while!

I think it's a case of 'how long is a bit of string?', depends on what your engine and gearbox are like, whether the chassis has seen better days, whether your tyres are cracked etc. It should be able to cope with 350kg though. I have had 750kg of ballast in the back of my 109 and its felt like...

On a quick google search I can't find anything at the minute, I have seen the 'inner clamshell' (I think is how it was described) for sale somewhere though. Might be worth sending an email to Pegasus as they seem to do the vast majority of the bulkhead components...

Here's the page on my rebuild thread where I dealt with the bits around the airvents, yours looks like it may be worse than mine was. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/straight-6-rebuild.266514/page-3 If you don't fancy making the bits yourself you can buy the inner and outer skin as...

Did you adjust the snail cams afterwards so they lock the wheel up without the pedal being pressed and then wind them back one click?

If you got air into the system they can be a pig to bleed as the nipple is the lowest point. You should adjust the snail cam to press the pistons into the slave cylinders before you bleed them to minimise the internal volume then adjust the snail cams till the wheels lock up then wind them back...

I recovered my dash top in leather effect vinyl stuck on with spray adhesive and a few extras little metal push on fasteners (you can still but them new), pictures half way down this page: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/straight-6-rebuild.266514/page-5

Good stuff.

Amazing work, massive congratulations on a actually getting it out and muddy.

Thanks for that pete, what you can see of number 4 cylinder and piston does look remarkably clean and shiny compared to the others.

Cheers for that Pete, did you get any pictures of the block while the head was off by any chance?

Can't see any pictures chap, is it just me?

Pure guesswork but if you've not got a hardened head could the 200 miles at motorway speeds have caused damage to the valve seats 'lead memory'? May cause issues?

Strong effort, many people would have binned the chassis if it needed that much work.

I can't offer any advice as I've never done this but as a fellow 6 pot owner (also from 1979) can I ask a favour, can you take a few pictures and slap them up in here when you do it as I'd be interested to see.

Good job we've got jamesmartin then! ;)

As a 6 cylinder owner myself I did tell him not to as well, as you pointed out he may well regret the decision in a few years time. I'd love to get more miles to the gallon out of mine, I average about 14 mpg in winter and 17 mpg in summer but it's not going to happen. Ignoring all other reasons...

I'd suggest you find one to drive before you go throwing lots of time and cash into anything. If you've not driven one you may be in for a shock, set up properly (engine in good tune, brakes sorted and properly adjusted, suspension that hasn't had the leaves blow out with rust etc) they can be...