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Good to know, I have sent the company an email and will wait for a reply, next week at this stage. Otherwise I might take them off and tighten them - the no.1 is the easiest to get out just so I will probably remove it and tighten to see if it fixes the issue - then maybe Ill just go through...

Hi, Yes, I am sure that its not from the fuel pipe, to confirm this 100% I wiped off the injector no.1 - started the engine and just sat and watched it for a few minutes. You can see it slowly seep out from the connection between the upper and lower half. Also, yes, I contemplated trying that...

Hi everyone, Just making a post on here to figure out what is the best course of action for my problem. I have a 1999 P38 with the M51 diesel. I sent away its injectors to be refurbished by a reputable company, they cleaned them, installed new nozzles and tested them. I just spent the morning...

Good news! One of the many issues with my P38 has been solved today - thanks to the info from @Datatek My P38 now has one key that unlocks the door, ignition and glovebox. Its on the old fob just for now but ill change it over to a new shell once I get a second key cut. Next step is to...

Ah, I wouldn't mind so then if you could tell me how to swap the barrels. I cant remember exactly now but I was following some guide to replace the ignition barrel and it looked awful - removing pretty much every single component from the steering column assembly - I just thought it would be...

Thank you also for the suggestions, I think the same about the microswitches as all the locks etc work perfect - just no response from the fob. Although I have no idea whether the fob is coded to the car, I haven't really investigated into the RF system very much, just made sure it was plugged...

Thanks for the reply, Here is what I was thinking would be the best option: Remove the BECM and ECM from the scrap car and get them sent off for repair (and have the eka/immobiliser disabled etc) Remove the door handle from the scrap and good car, then mess around with the lock wafers until I...

Hello everyone, I don't usually like starting a new thread until my older threads come to a conclusion - but since I've not gotten anything new to share about my ABS situation (Ignoring it for now until I have time to replace the Modulator) - I figured it would be a good a time as any to start...

Ah, I didn't actually notice, I just assumed it was based in the UK since all they did was Land Rovers. Ill hold onto my money for the time being and try some more swapping around as im actually fairly happy with the Autels diagnostics for the ABS system. If I ever attack the more P38 specific...

Ofcourse I cant be 100% sure that its not the ABS ECU, but I mean, since both the ecus give the exact same error when swapped around... It must not be ecu related. Theres a good chance it could still be wiring, it seems probing is useless as it just gives me the false illusion that everything is...

Ah perfect, I dont know how I missed that, I agree it actually looks fairly straight forward. I probably wont be disassembling the modulator itself, just swapping them around for diagnostic purposes.

It’s a shame there isn’t more documentation on the modulator, loads for the Disco II but pretty much nothing for the P38 (I can’t even find a proper guide on how to remove it!). Good to know that the modulator itself is not some super complex box of magic, should be easy enough to discern...

Ok guys, so here is an update. When I added the dedicated ground to the ABS ECU, it finally cleared my "Abs ground or reference ground fault". This then resulted in the following faults : Brake switch failure / RR Inlet valve open circuit / RL Inlet valve open circuit Attempts to solve the...

Hah, Im no smarter than the amalgamation of 15 years worth of Range Rover P38 forum posts - Im not kidding when I say that is how I've learned pretty much everything about these things! Unfortunately nobody else in the past has had the exact same issue as me so here we are now! Hopefully we can...

Lol - I wish the damn light would go out over 5mph! Yes I know about this - I have never actually experienced a working ABS system in a P38 but I would think that - a working system - wouldn't say ABS Fault / Traction Failure every single startup? - My dash lights being stuck on are only a side...

Thanks, I thought I was going a bit insane there for a minute as I kept reading about these "2 brake switches" - although I could never find one! I think that maybe the switches are supposed to invert? So like when the pedal is pressed - one is open and one is closed etc? Not sure yet as I am...

OK - we have some change! So I ran a dedicated ground from the reference ground on the ABS ECU: Not the most graceful solution but it seems to have been just enough to make a difference. I turn the key - dash faults still appearing (abs fault, traction failure) - I cleared the error codes on...

The fault never clears, whether it’s cleared by a scanner or on start (ignition II, no engine) the abs fault and traction failure come up straight away. I guess this means it has to be 100% electrical since the car isn’t even running/moving and the fault is present

Yes I have a spare ecu, I don’t know if it is correct. I show it in one of my earlier posts on this discussion. It’s from a 2001 parts P38 I have. Comes up a bit differently on the scanner. I actually explained it pretty well and there are some pics to please reference that for info on my spare ecu

I don’t have a nanocom, any of the scanner readings I’m giving are from an Autel Maxidiag. The Autel can give me a pretty good idea of what’s going on with the wheel sensors - I get voltage, speed, - along with any possible simple faults like short to another sensor etc. I’d love a Nanocom but...