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Still sounds like the VCU, have you carried out the suggested tests ?

The long one on the left is often the first to fail as it rubs through on a bracket on the air intake, check underneath the pipe.

I have the same model but loaded with the MB etc software. The scanner works on my FL and reads and clears any faults including engine and gearbox and also reads live data. I've looked on various websites but non shows a software update for LR so will look with interest for any other replies...

As Optimus Prime suggests sounds like flat battery or dead cell. Have you tried to start with your headlights on, if they dim down then it's either a faulty battery or poor connection either engine to earth or feed from battery to starter solenoid.

Bought mine from Rimmers £120 as cheaper non OE or non genuine parts are usually noisy and suffer from premature failure.

Certainly don't get a blast of warm air, think it's just enough to help demist the screen whilst the coolant warms up (or maybe mines not working either :( )

Think it's the V6, info on the web suggests its in the top hose but not sure if that's correct.

The click is from the temperature control, similar to when you switch any electrical switch on.

Mine only works when you turn the temp control to the right and feel a definite click.

Had similar on Rover 75 turned out to be the temperature sensor for the fan (fitted on the rad on the 75) only cost a few pounds from dealer.

Steering tyres always wear faster than non steering, unless the rear tracking is out.

But you'll still end up with the larger diameter tyres on the rear then when you have to replace the fronts you just move the rears to the front.

That's what you call inflation, cost me £64 in July last year.

Answering the cheapo tyre question, I bought pair of Roadstones at £80 each fitted, more than happy. Original Mich synchrones still had plenty of tread but side walls were badly cracked.

There's a you tube video on how to repair all the different Freelander window regulators which I found useful.

Makes very little if any difference to fuel consumption, vehicle is designed as a 4x4 and removing rear drive train changes handling characteristics which means that it is a notifiable modification and should be declared to your insurer, your choice.

Presume that drive shaft refers to rear props and VCU. If this has been removed it often means there is problems with either the IRD or rear diff, if you do a forum search there is plenty of info, too much for me to post and almost certainly more accurate. Comments from sellers which suggest...

My clamps on the tailgate regulator were so badly corroded that I just went for the complete unit from the word go. Only thing to remember is that you'll have to adjust the two side runners at the bottom or the window could either jam on the window rubber or leave a gap at the top.

Now that's what I'd call forward planning :)

You could also rip off the flexi inlet hose on the left hand side of the engine (looking from the front) shouldn't be that difficult to rip off with the adrenalin raised:)