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Could be a Valve knackered due to lowered flash point and pre ignition, sounds like it's a Head off job for a start.

They usually come with bottom fixing brackets which fix where the front D rings are mounted. As previous post, no need to use these fixings as the seats hold the guard in place.

Fuel filter is in the mounting bracket in a plastic tube and is a right bugger to get out as is seizes into the tube. Should be changed every 60,000 miles but is often missed during servicing, mine had done 110,000 miles and was the original. Grease well when replacing.

You can buy new off ebay for £12 incl pp as opposed to £20 odd from Halfrauds or direct from Haynes.

Sounds like your new pump is an ebay special. Genuine and OE pump costs app £120 anything less and your usually buying noisy premature failing crap.

Had the same problem with my 55 reg, read about the rust problem on here and found a great big rusty hole. Decided it was time to change to something that needed less maintenance, hopefully.

Have a read on rover Rons website, tuning-diesels.com, before buying Bosch as they are known to be unreliable.

Check your intercooler/turbo hoses for holes, especially the O/S where it rests on the inlet manifold bracket.

Hello Keith Presume the weather has resulted in a change to your planned trip to Culdrose. Let me know when you have an update. Cheers Nick

Far as I know that's what it's supposed to do. The MAF doesn't do anything until the engine/gearbox has reached the correct operating temperature. Petrol engined vehicles work the same way, heating up the cat first, all to do with emissions.

Changed mine early last year for a 308 SW 59 plate, would suggest you buy the Lexia diagnostics off ebay as its a great piece of kit that can save you a fortune.

Clips are about £4 each on eBay and they work extremely well, had one on my Freelander for at least 18 months.

Lining the joints up between front and rear won't make any difference as the VCU slips so the props will never stay in line, unless the VCU is seized.

I believe the front prop joint only comes with the front prop. It's not like the usual cv joint as it has 3 fixed rollers. When I stripped mine down the grease had turned to liquid, perhaps re packing with cv joint grease may cure the vibration.

Get a bar or large screwdriver in the yoke and see if it moves, garage may not have noticed as would have presumed tightening the bolts would have been sufficient. Bells told me that later models had different length shafts, no problem if used with longer splined yoke but no good with the...

I'd check, as Hippo suggests, the two bolts that fix the splined flanges to the VCU. When I fitted my recon Bells VCU the shaft in the VCU was longer than the original which resulted in the flange going too far on the shaft and the fixing bolt tightening onto the shaft and not onto the flange...

Have you read all this thread ? If not I suggest you do. Most important you don't remove the incorrect plug or you will loose reverse gear. Not a simple job like autos with dipsticks so read up first.

You can also buy ball joint repair clips rather than a new linkage, the ball joint had worn on my linkage and kept popping out, bought the clip off ebay for a few pounds.

Used them on the company van back in the eighties and also my Wife's Escort. They were Avons back in those days and the studs were extremely noisy after the roads were gritted. We kept spare wheels and tyres for both vehicles back then so the resident Kennings tyre fitter would just swap them...

Strange turn of phrase" in the shop" very American. Suggest following Creeeg's advice.