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I think your ticklist is the better approach than mine - I trusted my memory and my focus while doing things, but of course that only works out when everything is fine in the end... By now I am no longer sure about any of the things I did. I will have another look at the relief valve and then...

Just found a picture I had taken before removing the old bearings - so at least I can tell how the caps need to be installed. I am pretty sure that is how I did install them (and how I did see them two days ago), but as always I can not be 100% sure unless I check again... All of this is getting...

The attached screenshot from the manual is the only indication I could find that gives a hint about the orientation of the caps. There is a bit of a shadow on the top bearing half shell right where it starts, next to end of the feeler gauge. This might mean that the two shells have to be...

Ah, I misunderstood you. I think the bearing caps do not have dowels that completely fix the orientation - on your photo you could basically rotate them such that the numbers would be upside down (but in the same order). This makes a difference because the bearing shells have this folded part at...

I tried to make sure that all the caps are in the correct orientation, and I believe I did not make a mistake (but who knows...). They are all in the same orientation (I checked that two days ago when the sump was off again), so they are either all wrong or all correct... The workshop manual...

The timing is fixed - for some reason I had to completely misalign the distributor, make it turn a bit and have a few irregular firings, and then readjust it. But in the end it is nearly at the same position as initially... Unfortunately the oil pressure is still as high as before. Will now...

When I pull out the pump, I believe what comes out is up until part and including 212309. The actual drive shaft is shown on the second screen shot, so the distributor and the pump shaft indeed are connected, but because the shaft and gear remains in place, the rotation can not really change...

No, I did not measure anything. But yesterday I loosened the relief spring to see if that would help - it made no difference other than that I created an oil leak...

Yes, but there are some pieces in between that prevent the rod from freely rotating. I think it remains coupled to the driving rod (and thus the main engine timing) at all times, so the distributor must remain aligned. But yes, I will check the timing before trying to start it up again. I am...

I am assuming the engine turning may become necessary if the driving shaft for the oil pump is completely removed, but I did not have to do that. The driving shaft goes down through the piece I showed on my photo, and all it does is move up and down by a few millimetres when the pump is out...

So the bend on the cover around the relief valve is probably from removing the shaft and it pressing against the inner walls of the block. I am not worried about that because it does not have a key function. The next hole up is the interesting one. It is actually a "double hole" with the shape...

Update: I removed the sump to check the oil pump and indeed found that there was an issue with the alignment of the shaft from the oil pump with the hole in the engine block. No idea where that comes from or if it has been there before (see photo). This had two consequences - the shaft was near...

Mine used to sit at 50 cold and warm, and since it now seems to start out at over 100 even after a drop it would be too high...

would you think it is safe to run the engine warm to see if that drops the pressure? I am a bit worried...

Tried a new gauge - it behaves exactly the same. Played with the pressure relief valve to make sure it was not doing something funny, and with the little bolt above it. Makes no difference, the gauge goes to the maximum right away. It is very bizarre, because this would indicate a pressure far...

had a chance to do a couple of checks... Battery Voltage engine off: 12.6 V Engine idling (with choke): 12.3 V Revving: 14.1 V Resistance through the pressure sensor to ground is 60 Ohm with the engine off, drops to 45 Ohm when idling, and goes up through the roof when I rev it, but then it...

I totally see your point. And unless I find a trivial electronics issue I will certainly compare the reading from my current unit with a mechanical gauge.

Yes, I have the green light. It currently works as normally (on initially but off when engine runs and oil pressure high). I also had it light up (some time ago) when the oil level (and pressure) was dropping. What surprises me is that when I put the key in position 2 then all gauges operate...

Yes, that is my plan - I will check the sender with a multimeter to see if the problem is with the gauge or the wiring, then remove the sender and apply pressure (I have pressurised air, so the simulation is easy), that way I should be able to locate. At least it seems pretty clear that the oil...

thanks! I will go through some tests and see what I can do - the point with the high RPM is a good one! So my hunch that it is the relief valve is probably wrong.