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fitted SDi injectors, with the aid of my newly made slide hammer (been meaning to finish it for YEARS) Dear god the Hippo actually drives with a decent amount of guts now - lovely little upgrade. Next job: turbo upgrade!

tip: don't bodge it with paint, just throw a 6.5mm drillbit in the correct hole to lock the flywheel, and a 9.5mm drillbit in the pump pulley nothing "special", most people have a set of drillbits lying around. Locks the engine, so you can remove the crank pulley by yourself, and ensures the...

it's a resistor, and an op-amp for the MAP signal (which gives fuel-cut above 21psi anyway) ....in a pretty box ;)

I've gotten a similar/identical result, with a 2kOhm variable resistor, and a switch ;)

tbh, the letters will be taken off, and a "Longbridge" badge off an old mini will be replacing them :)

modified my Hippo to seamlessly blend in, at the Pride of Longbridge show yesterday

common fault I'm afraid - combination of: relatively weak/flexible slave bracket (or.. yours may be damaged) "sealed for life" clutch hydraulics, which still need to be bled... Mine is fully engaged by the time my foot is about 2" off the floor. Incredibly infuriating

the clutch arm should "jiggle" a little bit, but be damned near impossible to move any further by hand Take the bracket off (3 bolts) and look for any broken welds/etc, as any flex in this will massively reduce the amount of effort the hydraulics can produce on the clutch

fire? Or angle grinder?

if you're not offroading - and it's just used as a mile muncher... you may be better off removing the props and VCU, and storing until you go for a play :)

Not directly work on the Hippo... but started the process of reclaiming it's (soon to be fitted) uprated turbo from my Rover 45 :)

pull them out, and see what doesn't work? :lol:

only hunts at idle - when accelerating it's a beast ;)

Fitted my EVRY mod - so that's another 10-20Bhp on demand https://youtu.be/-C4vdpWDQO0 Tried a full-fuel mod, that forces the pump to give 100% of it's capacity, but the ECU doesn't like it, and just shuts down :lol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWzG_h47K1k Rebuilt the starter motor, the...

ooooh, what's needed to make them fit? Welded to the 5 door items, or bolted on additionally to the roof?

- L Series Engine Parts | Discount MG Rover Spares DMGRS - for all your L series needs ;) But... just give the gasket a clean, and it's good to go again. Yet to remove the manifold from my Hippo, but taken off loads from L series fitted to Rover 200's, 45's, and MGZS'. The EGR valve is the...

a Carbon monoxide detector won't detect much on a diesel I'm afraid (unless you're throwing out enough soot to make a volcano jealous). As for drilling out the bolt - I've got a spare manifold off ebay to work on. Much easier ;)

For a cheap+quick "removal", you only need to block off one of the ends :) The bolts that go into the manifold can be a PITA - so just fitting a blanking plate between the intake, and the stainless flexi pipe, will do the same job. Buuut.... as yours has already sheared off, there's a good...

L series diesel - basically the same as the 1.8 Original bracket was perfect, as is the new one. Flexes about 2mm under full pedal pressure

Been chatting with a few people today - and it sounds like the clutch diaphragm arms have gone a bit soft. So the clutch is being held nice and tightly, but the arms ain't having none of it. Threw the molested Rover 45 setup back on, to get it mobile. When it starts making horrible noises...