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rather than relocate a buttload of parts.... why not just cut the two power wires, and swap them over? Seems the simpler version :lol:

I took mine off... with some tin snips, and pliers....

Had a productive morning. Step 1 - ride up on some ramps (dear god, why did I never buy any before, so much easier!) Step 2 - make sure you chock the rear wheels, in my case, with a holset turbine housing crawl under, and laugh at your gearchange linkage that's sloppier than...

most likely just the hydraulics being their usual PITA self, being filled with air bubbles (I'm tempted to try a water/antifreeze mix, instead of brake fluid, in one of my spare hydraulic setups) But to answer your clutch arm question - I've seen 3 different types so far: Rover 200/25 cable...

well, instead of lovely smooth, clean oil - they've been running in (essentially) grinding paste. They may well continue to run for many more years, and then get worse and worse... or it may catastrophically seize up when you next try to move it. Without opening it up, and inspecting, nobody...

that sounds like the gears have indeed ground themselves into oblivion - new gearbox time

sounds like one (or more) bearings have died I'm afraid. Oil change would only help prove this, if shards of metal come out when you change it. But an oil change won't do much to improve it. Potentially the previous owner just lived with this fault, by not reversing?

You may have uncovered the reason the keys were "lost", to make it a non-runner I'm afraid....

When I first picked up my Hippo, it had the 3 amigos, so the HDC didn't work... once I pulled off the gaitor, it turned out the wiring had been ripped out of the crimped connection anyway... Re-crimped the wiring, only to have the sodding solder connections fail on to the switch fall off...

theoretically yes - but where would you put it? And they're typically pretty weak tbh

and - a set of 6 older transit 6 stud duallies have been aquired..... for a tenner :lol:

not mine I'm afraid - just a picture I gleamed off google :p

Once I get this turbo rebuilt (dodgy oil seals, it ****es out everywhere) and slap it on, I'll be up around the 170Bhp mark.. so I'm thinking about getting two of those "you can go fast, I can go anywhere" stickers, and changing it to "you can go fast, I can go anywhere fast" :lol: And yes...

I love how (once again) the ONLY person giving actual input on the idea, is GrumpyGel.. and "wtf is that", well you quoted my entire reply... so I'm going to say, it's a reply to GrumpyGel

I'd love to know why having pcd adaptors, with different wheels will "get me pulled". I've driven a lot of strange cars, which have gotten me pulled over because the police were genuinely curious, and interested: PG1 in the hippo still has the same fwd style "final drive" (it's actually a...

it'll be perfectly road legal (and declared, I may add) just a smidge heavy :lol: But that's not the point of this thread tbh

not when you're doing 10mph..

we're not racing, so unsprung weight doesn't matter all that much. Plus it'll still be lighter than a defender axle with hefty tyres, lol As long as we're not tractor pulling, the drivetrain will be fine (the PG1 in the FL1 is the strongest type made, and the lower spec versions survive turbo'd...

Something I've contemplated since before I even owned my hippo - fitting transit dual steelies Was originally just going to be for the rears, with the hippo converted to RWD, but I'm liking the idea of a haldex setup... so maybe a full on set of FOUR dualies could work well for...

I feel ya... now got a 3 month old. My central locking kit has been sat in its box for over 2 months now, lol